Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi all,

I sometimes have electrical guitars that come by the shop to get a setup, but rarely with locking nuts. The few times I had to lower the string height at the nut was a bit of a pain. I either filed the bottom of the nut, which was quite tidious (and that worked only if all the strings had to be lowered the same distance), or filed each slot as I usually do for standard nuts, which sort of made the locking nut "damaged" after I was done.

So all this to say I'm wondering if there is a better "standard" way to do this than what I do.

Any suggestion?

Thanks!

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

My heyday was in the hair band 80's, and I installed and maintained a ton of vibrato systems with locking nuts. They are ALL pains in the butt when the nut needs adjustment. If you can - adjust the nut before installation of the locking nuts. Otherwise, you'll just have to pull them off (like if you replace the nut), and then re-install. Be SURE to charge extra for this hassle when giving estimates! There's just no easy way... sorry.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Thanks Chris,

How did you manage to set the height? By filing the string slots or by removing material from the bottom?

I am also tempted to remove wood from under the nut.

Thanks in advance for any further suggestions.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

If you are talking about Floyd Rose nuts, forget it. Those things are harder than the hubs of hell. A file won't touch them, and grinding takes forever (and those parts get smokin' hot, too!). Shave the wood down a little at a time. You can always shim it back up.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Ok, thanks guys.

I'll go the route of shaving the wood that is under the nut.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

Definitely the way to go, as the nuts are designed very specifically. Filing the slot causes it to malfunction, and filing the bottom of the nut reduces the screw thread length, possibly causing it to bottom out.

I deal with a LOT of the Chines BC Rich guitars wioth the Floyd Rose bridges, and the nut shelves are ALWAYS at least 1/32 inch too high, often more.

The fastest most efficient way I've found to deal with it it to use a razor saw and saw down the front of the nut space parallel to the end of the fretboard using the fretboard end as a register to keep the saw straight, then use a very sharp chisel to remove the wood from the back to the front, then I finish it up with a flat sanding block. Takes about 5 minutes max. If I go too far I use the steel Floyd Nut shims, but if you measure carefully you won't need more than one or two, usually I end up with one shim on the bass side and none on the treble side for some reason.

I use the same procedure to install LSR roller nuts, but I use a micro chisel and remove the wood from the side. If you do that you need to start on the outside and chisel towards the center on the treble and bass side to avoid blowing out the wood.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Thanks for the tip, but I will use it on the next one as the two guitars I had in are done. I used a scraper to rough it and a file to level the bottom flat. Worked pretty well. It took me about 5 minutes also.

Thanks again to all for your help!

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

I remember the first time I saw a new Floyd Rose system in a box back in the 80's. I told the sales rep it was a nice prototype, and to call me when the "real ones" came out. He looked amazed, and told me "But this is the real one".

Needless to say, when the Kahlers came out later I became an instant fan and signed up the shop as a dealer.

If you are seeking more info, look up the series of articles I wrote for Stringed Instrument Craftsman about installing, maintaining, and repairing vibrato systems. I covered Fender, Floyds, and Kahlers.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Another thing to be sure of is that you have a nut with the correct radius to start with. They make different ones, if you only need to adjust the center strings or the E's you may have the wrong nut. Unlike Chris I was a FR fan from the get, bought one of the first 6 units that came into PA in late 83 and was hooked. Kahler's are nice too as are trans-trems but I like the rugged simplicity of the FR design. FWIW my personal player is set up with a zero fret and a roller nut, I skipped the locker at that end and never had any problems with pitch return.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

I installed my first Floyd on my personal guitar in the late eighties early nineties. I was lucky and got it right the first time, I have seen others that weren't so good that needed either wood removal or shims. Floyd rose sold various metal shims at the time that were slotted to slide on around the two bolts that held it on. You could make your own though out of cheap feller gauges.

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