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Currently just setting up 2 jigs, one a dovetail, and the other a mortise and tenon for the neck/body joint on the 4 different types of ukes. The dovetail comes from an old GAl article , an the M/t is based on cumpianos . I have successfully used a lap , or recess joint and epoxy glued butt joints. I would also like to make a uke using the spanish heel block method. I would love to hear your opinions on which joints you found useful for making neck/body joints on ukes , and Why?? I find the butt joint , particularly difficult, tricky, an time- consuming. I just stick a piece of 80 or 120 grit and start sanding. Your opinions , observations, and views would be appreciated . One of the reasons I am looking at the dovetail joint , is for future disassembly and repair. Ps the neck/body joint is usually 90 deg. But the trouble I have when doing the butt joint , is getting a perfect joint, on the curved upper rib bout . Thanks ernie

I do a bolt on butt joint on mine. I hollow out the heel some so only the edges of the heel contact the sides which makes fitting pretty easy.

Hi quinne Can you explain with diagram or photo ,. A picture is worth 1000 words ? 1/4 in bolt threaded insert ?? please explain, do you glue the narrow edges to the ribs ? or is the whole assembly held together with hardware thanks

I've only made one uke so far (pics in a thread not far from this one right now), so my input isn't worth a whole lot. I decided to make it with a bolt-on M/T joint using two 10-32 bolts/inserts. 1/4" hardware is way too big for a uke IMO. The 10-32 hardware seems more than adequate to hold the 40lbs (approx) tension of the uke strings. For the M/T joint, I used a standard 12-fret to the body template (3/4" wide tenon, 3/4" deep).





HTH,
Dave F.

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Cambrian Guitars

"There goes Mister Tic-Tac out the back with some bric-brac from the knick-knack rack"

I use a strait mortise and tenon. I made a small table. The instrument holder Tilts. Most guys use a barrel bolt with this setup. I have taken to epoxying in a 1/4" inch allthread rod into the neck and use a brass acorn nut and brass washers inside the body. I use this method because I want to be able to take the neck off the body and shoot more lacquer on the body if I want. Or to reset the neck easily. I use trueoil on neck so to be able to refinish neck is good too.

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http://goatrockukulele.com

I find that a bolted butt joint works for me. They are easy to fit and easy to remove. One hanger bolt works for smaller ukes and probably would be fine for a tenor, even though I have used two bolts on tenors so far. Just make sure there is enough meat in the heel for the screw end of the bolt. Also, make sure you have the right sized wrench and extension for tightening the nut on the bolt. The small soundhole doesn't give you much room to work with.

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Kevin Mason
Mason Guitars and Ukuleles on Facebook
http://masonguitars.net

thanks for the photos dave , I dug up some 10-32 1.5 in cap screws and matching threaded inserts. Do you have photos of the mail and female M/t templates you used, ?? thanks to the others for sharing their ideas. ernie