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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:13 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:22 am
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First name: Dave
Country: Scotland
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as the title.
i have CCL gunstock oil. would this do??

also. the fingerboard has some slight brown streaks in it. what stain would i use to get around this.

thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:20 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 3:08 pm
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Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: Thiessen
City: Lexington Park
State: MD
Stew Mac has a black fingerboard stain that will make it all black. As for sealing it, I use the colortone fingerboard oil from Stew Mac. I use Tru-oil on the back of my necks but not on the top of the fret board. I can't remember why but somewhere I read that you shouldn't use the gun stock oil on rosewood or ebony type fingerboards.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 1:00 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:34 pm
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First name: Stuart
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Mustang_jt wrote:
I can't remember why but somewhere I read that you shouldn't use the gun stock oil on rosewood or ebony type fingerboards.


If that's really true I would like to know why......can't remember where you heard that? Think. Think. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:06 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

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I remember what I was thinking, it shouldn't be used on cocobolo at all due to the oils in the wood (I did 4 cocobolo fretboards in a row). As for using on the fingerboard, it is fine to use on rosewood and ebony, but generally not done on the top of the fret board because tru-oil builds up, and then will get worn easily from the strings etc. It would probably be fine though if you put it on very lightly and not let it build up. I have always used it on the sides of the fretboard when I do the neck in tru-oil.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:47 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:35 pm
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Country: USA
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I've had situations where the true oil wouldn't dry, mainly cocobolo, but sometimes other woods as well. For instance I've used it succesfully on some guitar bodies made of Padauk, but then other Padauk pieces it wouldn't dry on them. I stopped using tru-oil altogether as it seems to be unpredictable and unreliable for me.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:33 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:22 am
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First name: Dave
Country: Scotland
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
????

gunstock oil still out the window?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 7:09 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 3:08 pm
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Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: Thiessen
City: Lexington Park
State: MD
My experience with Tru-Oil has led me to put it on as thin as possible. I have never had a problem with it drying as long as I do that. I used to try and see how thick I could get one coat without it running, but it became very unpredictable and a mess. I basically follow the directions on the bottle, and not what it on LMI's website. I use it directly on the wood with no other sealers or anything else, and put a little bit on a rag, start wiping it on the wood and keep wiping until it is no longer spreading the oil around (very thin layer). The only wood it hasn't dried to was cocobolo, I have never attempted paduk though. On my necks I use 4 or 5 coats like this and then put some wax on it. I have had great success over maple, walnut, jatoba, lacewood, african mahogany and redwood.

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