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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:19 pm 
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This may fall more into the realm of personal preference, but still I'd like to what you prefer when you fit a new (or replacement) saddle. Do you arch it to the same radius as the fretboard? Or do you prefer to make it with a slightly more pronounced radius--say, a 16" radius FB, with a 14" radius saddle?
Or do you use an identical radius?
I can't see going the opposite direction, but since I've opened this up to preferences, we should list that as an option as well.

I've had success--and problems--with the first two choices. (Probably some bad fretwork.)

Anyway...ideas? Opinions?

Thanks,

Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:21 pm 
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*edit* ..."I'd still like to hear what you prefer..."

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:05 pm 
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I do actually lean toward the opposite of what you mentioned if I vary from
the fretboard radius at all. In thoeryl, it's often appropriate to follow the
same radius as the fretboard, tilted to be from 1/32" to 1/16" higher at the
bass than the treble depending on the instrument and player's style. In
practice, I often find myself flattening out the radius slightly toward the bass
side. Loosely translated in to final string height, this would mean following a
linearly progressive increase in string height from the high e to about the D,
then raising string height slightly more than a linear increase would decide
for the A and the E. Again, it's slight, but If I lean one way or the other it
would be flattening the radius a bit to raise the bass strings more
aggressively. And it all depends on player style. I'm more likely to go this
route for an aggressive flatpicker than for a finger picker or folk chord
strummer.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:08 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Edit:

[QUOTE=David Collins] I do actually lean toward the opposite of what you
mentioned if I vary from the fretboard radius at all. [/QUOTE]

And by "you" I meant Steve's method, not Terry. Terry's description would
roughly line up with the same end results as mine.

And of course by "theoryl" I meant "theory".

That edit button should be back any day now, and I can't wait.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 2:48 pm 
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Thanks Terry, thanks David.
My question, better stated, would read something like "How do you lay it out"? I end up setting the high e, the low e, then plotting the same arch as the fretboard between those two points.
Then, like Terry, I shave a bit here, a bit there.
I suppose I'd like a bit more predictability in the approach.

Thanks again,

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 4:46 pm 
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I usually throw something in there that's about the same radius as the fb but tall, then measure the string heights at the 12th fret and calculate how much I need to remove at the saddle for my desired string height.
For example if I want to lower a particular string say 1/64 I'll remove a 32nd at the saddle.
I bet you know that though.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 4:05 am 
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Koa
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To lay out the saddle arch, I set the saddle in the bridge ( making sure it is fitted properly & firmly seated).
Then I take a 24" rigid straight edge... on one end of the straight edge, I loosely tape a good sharp pencil so it sticks out 3/4" past the end of the straight edge. Lay the straight edge on a flat surface & position the pencil tip aproximately .085" above the surface & tighten the tape to keep it in place... Add more tape if needed.
Then it's a simple matter of sliding the straight edge across the fingerboard with the pencil touching the saddle.
Voila! A good place to start. After that the arch will be refined as required using string clearances as your guide.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 6:02 am 
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Jim, Daniel, thanks for your contributions also!
Jim, it never hurts to remind anyone of the "obvious". (In my case, it's a fine idea.)
Daniel, I like your approach. It reminds me of Cumpiano's method of marking the nut with a flattened pencil to do the initial height adjustment.

Good stuff, amigos.

Steve

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