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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 12:54 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:35 am
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Location: Kings Mtn., NC, USA
First name: Bill
Last Name: Greene
City: Kings Mountain
State: North Carolina
Zip/Postal Code: 28086
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Can someone give me the quick rundown on the difference between a "drop in through saddle", and a "through saddle".

I'm jigging up for saddle making, and I've surfed Mario's site (excellent, by the way!) and just look at Todd Stock's tutorial...and both those guys use different terminology. I've seen "through" saddles, but I thought those were glued in, and Mario doesn't appear to glue his in, since he gives the user two saddles with each new guitar.

So obviously I'm missing something related to how those bridges are constructed. Anyone want to help a dummy out?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 1:17 am 
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Koa
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Hi Bill,
looks like you already figured it out. A drop in through saddle is not glued. As long as the tolerances as far as fit and proper depth requirements are met it will function the same but be easier to remove.
Hope this helps,
Evan

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 2:42 am 
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Koa
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Mine is a long, but drop-in, saddle. I don't rout all the way through the "wings" of the bridge.

Looks like a through saddle, acts like one, but isn't.... Sneaky, eh?



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:28 am 
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Koa
Koa

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Country: USA
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Not just sneaky, but makes much more sense to me. Thanks greatly!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:41 am 
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[QUOTE=grumpy]Mine is a long, but drop-in, saddle. I don't rout all the way through the "wings" of the bridge.

Looks like a through saddle, acts like one, but isn't.... Sneaky, eh?

[/QUOTE]

What is the ultimate purpose of your sneakiness?  Wider saddle / more surface excitement of the bridge?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:54 am 
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Koa
Koa

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What he said.

Plus, no need to glue it, and I can now send two saddles with each guitars, for further fine tuning the action, via the post office, a plain envelope and a 50 cent stamp...



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:01 am 
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Koa
Koa

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Location: Kings Mtn., NC, USA
First name: Bill
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Zip/Postal Code: 28086
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I get it now...I understand. Then that's the way to go for me. Mario, I really like your bridge shape: elegant, very classy.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:15 am 
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Koa
Koa

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I really like your bridge shape

Thanks! But which one? <g> At last count, I do 27 variations...



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 5:50 am 
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Koa
Koa

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Location: Kings Mtn., NC, USA
First name: Bill
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State: North Carolina
Zip/Postal Code: 28086
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I was speaking about the one you make on the "construction" portion of your site. I'm enamored with that particular one...fairly simple looking, but really clean and pure. Great lines.

27 variations? Good Lord. I'll be happy if I can figure out how to produce just ONE consistently. My hat's off to you! So if I steal, um, borrow the concept of that particular bridge, I'll really only be "borrowing" 1/27th of your design idea...is that right?    (Jus' kidding)

Bill

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:15 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Martin has been using a decent method for a "drop in" through saddle.
Unfortunately they seem to be gluing them in with some construction
adhesive, so they don't really drop in and out, but it looks clean. One of
the catches with a true through saddle is that the ends of the saddle have
to be shaved feather thin at the edges, and it can be difficult to keep
them intact and looking clean. With that style they really need to be glued
in.

Here are some shots of a drop in through saddle I did for a saddle
transducer installation. The ends match the style that Martin is currently
using, and offer a pretty clean look.

I filled the ends with a black tinted epoxy on an ebony bridge here as
Martin does, though it would not be much more work to chisel the ends
square.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:16 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:21 am 
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Cocobolo
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David,

I do mine in a similar fashion. The difference is I square off the slot before cutting the saddle to length, so I don't have to fill the ends. Of course, this is on new work where I'm not trying to save an existing saddle.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 1:26 am 
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[QUOTE=Bill Greene] I've surfed Mario's site (excellent, by the way!) [/QUOTE]


Bill do you have a link, thanks


Peter



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 1:36 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:35 am
Posts: 1325
Location: Kings Mtn., NC, USA
First name: Bill
Last Name: Greene
City: Kings Mountain
State: North Carolina
Zip/Postal Code: 28086
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Peter:

Sure, but I have no idea how to insert a link here, but it's Mario Proulx's site at:


www.proulxguitars.com

His "construction" section is exceptional, and you have the additional benefit of being able to come here and ask him for a bit more specifics. Check out the neck shaping part...that's impressive (and scary).

Bill


Bill

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 3:22 am 
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Location: United States
First name: Waddy
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www.proulxguitars.com

Bill, use the little world with a link under it.  First, highlight the word you want to attach to the link, then click that button, then either type, or, as I usually do, paste the link into the dialog box.  "Duck Soup!"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:38 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:35 am
Posts: 1325
Location: Kings Mtn., NC, USA
First name: Bill
Last Name: Greene
City: Kings Mountain
State: North Carolina
Zip/Postal Code: 28086
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Well I'll be darned. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks!

www.proulxguitars.com

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