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John's 2016 challenge build http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10145&t=47809 |
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Author: | Bryan Bear [ Tue May 24, 2016 9:55 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
I like them all for various reasons but I'm thinking #4 might look the best with pinkish cedar. But, it is hard to tell from photos on a computer screen especially so without finish on the boards. In the end, I'm sure whichever you choose will be nice. |
Author: | DennisK [ Tue May 24, 2016 11:53 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
I like the stripey ironwood. If you keep a sapwood stripe in the center of the soundboard, then go with it. Looks like it's pretty narrow, so good to use on a parlor. But if you don't want any cedar sapwood, then the thin osage is my next favorite. But is it long enough? The width is enough that you might be able to get a parlor back and ukulele back from it. |
Author: | Bryan Bear [ Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Nice looking. Are you going with a tail piece? How are you going to brace it? I'm still trying to decide how to lay out my braces. |
Author: | truckjohn [ Thu Jun 02, 2016 8:56 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
I have recently been enamored with lightly built ladder bracing in small guitars. Contrary to popular opinion - it doesn't seem to give up much of anything on a small guitar when well done. The issue I think is that most of the "good" ones were built pre-great depression.... After this most of the small and medium shops closed up or were sold off. The big factories changed construction to a much heavier, quieter, high volume mass produced product. While not impossible to find, they certainly are not common and so there is not the ample basis for comparison as with something like a Dreadnought. But - even on an X brace.... When you do the tailpiece - you can use a spruce bridge patch and a smaller/lighter bridge and save a lot of weight for the same stiffness. Done well, a small body guitar like this will be very loud. All that is a round about way of saying... I haven't decided yet ![]() Thanks |
Author: | Bryan Bear [ Wed Jun 08, 2016 4:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Rats! You are probably still okay though. By the time you brace the back and glue it to the rim a plate that thick will probably stay the right shape. Did you use a thickness sander? Sometimes backs with varying grain directions will move a bit more when thickness sanding. I assume that as they get warmed up moisture is driven out and if there are flat sawn and quarter/rift sawn sections they equilibrate at different rates. I had a fairly funky back after thicknessing but by the time I was gluing the braced plate to the rim all was fine. I hope the top works out. I am never confident in my ability to glue up the halves flush with really thin plates. I joint and glue them thick then get the saw marks out. If it looks like it might be thin by the time I get them out, I do the outside and rossette before it is perfectly smooth on the back. |
Author: | DennisK [ Wed Jun 08, 2016 4:43 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
truckjohn wrote: Last night I jointed the top. I decided on a Lutz spruce top instead of cedar. This top was at 0.105" after I cleaned up the saw marks prior to jointing.... So if I can use it - gravy... If not, it's just another scrap top. Another groan there because it's just frustrating when you start off with a top that's plenty thick... But the saw marks just never come out. I always do the show-face first for that reason. Make sure it looks perfect, and then thickness from the other side where it's ok to leave a few tool marks. If you're doing ladder bracing with a glued bridge, then .105" may not be thick enough. X bracing, then it probably is, especially if you use a large bridge plate. I have no experience with tailpiece guitars, so no idea there. Sorry to hear about the back causing trouble. If you can get it thicknessed, it will probably be ok. At least the flatsawn part is toward the outer edge, so most of it will be cut away. |
Author: | J De Rocher [ Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Very nice looking set. I have a set of white kermodie on the shelf but it's not as nice as the set you have. All that silking should look good under the finish. |
Author: | J De Rocher [ Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Huge thumbnails? What about the huge toenails? I like the L-O shape a lot and plan to build one like that some day. It's not very traditional parlor guitar-like in shape, but it's in the ball park size-wise. I don't care for the one on the upper right. It looks a little bit too much like a small dreadnought to me. Either of the two lower ones is nice in a traditional parlor shape way. Maybe it comes down to how traditional you want go. |
Author: | SteveSmith [ Sat Jun 18, 2016 5:40 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Any of them would work but I have to say for a parlor I'm partial to the one on the lower right. |
Author: | Bryan Bear [ Sat Jun 18, 2016 9:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Hey, I have a pair of shoes just like those! I'm with Steve, I like the lower right. Does the grain in the back plate compliment any of the shapes better than others? |
Author: | truckjohn [ Thu Dec 15, 2016 9:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Sides are in the mold. ![]() |
Author: | truckjohn [ Tue Dec 20, 2016 8:46 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Tail block is being glued in place. I hope to get the head block in tonight. ![]() Thanks |
Author: | Bryan Bear [ Fri Dec 23, 2016 9:42 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
Looking good. If you ever need a case for it, just buys j-45 |
Author: | truckjohn [ Sun Dec 25, 2016 10:33 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: John's 2016 challenge build |
You found out my secret.... I build replicas of ancient Russian nesting guitars. |
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