Official Luthiers Forum!

Not sure I have posted before but if I have it was a long time ago. I run a one person repair and building workshop in Melbourne South Eastern Australia.

Recently an early 60's Gibson Melody Maker was left with me to repair some neck damage and complete a re-fret - see photos below. The lacquer is in poor condition with quite a deal of crazing. The neck damage is worse than it looks and there is a depression on the right side [photo POV] that to me looks perilously close to the truss rod lurking underneath. I am pretty sure once I start in on making a flat area to glue a fillet of mahogany too, the truss rod will pop out. Pretty obviously quite a deal of the origional finish will be sacrificed to repair it.

Any ideas as to the best way to proceed with this one?

What is the problem if a small area of the truss rod slot is exposed. If you make sure not to get any glue in there, it should not make a difference to the patch.

Ed

What Ed said. Not sure that you have any other choice. The necks on Melody Makers as you know are already super thin making exposing the truss rod as you suspected highly likely. Is this a 60's one?

yep 1960's

Cool old guitar. If you get a chance perhaps please post more pics? Also do you know what caused the damage on the back of the neck?

Just to show it, here is my '62... I've had it since 1969. Bought it from a pawn shop for $42 and trade of cheap Japanese strat copy. I has nice tone. A keeper...

_________________
Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

yes I will when the resto job gets underway -

damage? angry wife or GF/BF I'd say been whacked a few times with a lump of wood - surprised that the neck didn't shatter - the timber is heavily impregnated with sweat, hand gunk etc so it has been played extensively after the damage in spite of its near death experience - the frets are flat and nearly down to the board

I've done a similar repair on a 60s Japanese weirdo guitar. It wasn't broken to that extent but what I ended up doing was taking a gouge and scooping out a VERY shallow area. Flip the gouge over and cut your fill with the inverted side so it fits well. Use carbon paper to get a good fit, level it, refin, done deal.

In my case I didn't get down to the truss rod, if you did though I would just cut a channel to fit it and then infill it like normal. I don't know if this would affect the truss rod but I'm sure that a more experienced gentlemen can let us know.