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Regal Mandolin Rebuild
http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10137&t=42387		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  WudWerkr [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 1:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Regal Mandolin Rebuild
I recently reworked an acoustic electric Mandolin. Was a fender . I sold it to a customer who gave it as a present to a guy in Colorado . Last week , the fella from Colorado came into my store and handed me a Mandolin that was his dads . I looked it over and gave him and Estimate for getting it back to playable without really changing the "age" and "wear" . Prolly more than its worth . he said Ok , do it . soooooo I said check back in early summer .

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Author:  Hesh [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 2:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
Perhaps raise the estimate.... ;)
Author:  RTurner [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 3:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
We often see...or even own...instruments where the sentimental value is way greater than the commercial value. My dad's Kay archtop...or his Gibson C-1 "classical" come to mind...or even some of the really beat Howe Ormes that I have for which I'd have to charge a customer many hundreds of bucks to get them mostly right. But if the dough...or motivation...are half way there, then we do it.

On the Regal, well, of course the back has to come off. That may not be easy around the neck area...there's a lot of surface area of blocking there, but if you do, that will let you do nearly all of the structural work needed. You might want to make a simple outside mold out of 3/4 MDF or plywood so when you do go to put the back on again, you won't have lost the shape. Do make sure the neck angle is reasonable when you glue on the back. Don't be afraid to rebind it with new and probably larger back binding.

As for the finish...well, that's a black hole. Retouching a sunburst is not for the faint at heart. I'd consider doing something with Behlen's Qualarenu, maybe drop filling with shellac, and then lightly French polishing the whole thing.

I think you could get it playable and structurally reasonably sound for under $500.00, and what could the guy get new for that?
Author:  WudWerkr [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
RTurner wrote:

On the Regal, well, of course the back has to come off. That may not be easy around the neck area...there's a lot of surface area of blocking there, but if you do, that will let you do nearly all of the structural work needed. Don't be afraid to rebind it with new and probably larger back binding.

As for the finish...well, that's a black hole. Retouching a sunburst is not for the faint at heart.
I think you could get it playable and structurally reasonably sound for under $500.00, and what could the guy get new for that?


( 1 ) I'm steaming back off , and repairing ( 2 ) repair top from inside with CA in cracks and cleats ( 3 ) reapply back "good idea on template " Re-bind ( 4 ) use pore fill to leave the scratches and usage as visable but covered and a light coat of nitro or a light french polish as u suggested ( 5 ) plug tuner-holes with hard maple and re-drill or find a sleeve and sleeve them to get the slop out . ( 6 ) finger board I haven't decided yet , pretty deep pockets . open to suggestions .
Author:  RTurner [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
Oh, please don't use CA glue. Use hot hide glue or fish glue.

And pore filler? Absolutely not. It's basically dyed plaster. That will make a horrible mess. Drop fill with shellac, French polish over it. Takes a while to do...allow four or five weeks of doing a little bit every few days if the fill is to be deep. One thing I've found is that transparent fixes are often less noticeable than trying to use color.

The fingerboard is dyed birch or maple. Are you going to refret it? Might be easier to than not. But don't try to sand down to the bottom of fbd. divots making the fingerboard way thinner. Fingerboard divots can be filled as per Frank Ford's methods with ebony sawdust and superglue; then lightly "plane" it...which is sanding...and refret. We used to sand fingerboards way too much. No need now...

Re. tuners: Plugging and redrilling will be a nightmare. You could put thin vintage-syle bushings in the tuner holes. StewMac has them...not the knurled type...the tubing style with the lip...here ya go: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Tune ... hings.html
Author:  WudWerkr [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
RTurner wrote:
Oh, please don't use CA glue. Use hot hide glue or fish glue. wick CA in crack and Use Good glue to cleat

One thing I've found is that transparent fixes are often less noticeable than trying to use color. Using Transparent filler I have shellac , may use that

The fingerboard is dyed birch or maple. Are you going to refret it? NO

Might be easier to than not. But don't try to sand down to the bottom of fbd. divots making the fingerboard way thinner. Agreed

Fingerboard divots can be filled as per Frank Ford's methods with ebony sawdust and superglue; Good idea

Re. tuners: Plugging and redrilling will be a nightmare. You could put thin vintage-syle bushings in the tuner holes. StewMac has them...not the knurled type...the tubing style with the lip...here ya go: Was looking at these already . http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Tune ... hings.html


Thanks for suggestions [:Y:]
Author:  RTurner [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
It would be easier to get that fingerboard looking good without frets in the way. You should be able to pull the frets, clean up and redye the fingerboard, and refret it in about an hour...maybe an hour and a half if you haven't done many mando refrets. Trying to work between the frets is just a time wasting pain in the butt.
Author:  the Padma [ Sat Jan 04, 2014 9:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Regal Mandolin Rebuild
Yo, Wud

Quote:
without really changing the "age" and "wear"


Well to me that means...no filling or colouring/staining. No shellack or poly, or lacquer...NO NOthing and other than
refretting (but only if it needs it) leaving the finger board as it is as well.

Fix only whats cracked, broken, unglued or is needed to make it playable.

Clean the tuners and make usable. Use bushing as suggested and only if necessary, install new reliced tuners.

In fact me wouldn't even clean it other than in the areas needed to do the work on.

Avoid the "black hole of finishing" and "geting that fingerboard looking good" It ain't what your client is asking for.

Well thats my take on what ~ without really changing the "age" and "wear" means. Remember, he wants it playable. NOT restored...way big time difference.

Oh and only use hide glues, just in case him grandson wants to restore the sucker down the road.

But you do as you wish. Just make sure your having fun at it...or step away from the mando. laughing6-hehe


blessings
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