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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2020 1:48 pm 
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Location: Napa Valley
First name: David
Last Name: Foster
City: Napa
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 94558
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
So I'm curious to know what your preference is as far as when you install your tailpiece and bridge posts. do you counter sink the lip or do you have the lip protrude up about the 1/8".

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2020 2:10 pm 
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First name: Chris
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If possible, I like to countersink.... However, on some thin guitars like SG's or certain years of Flying V's it is better to leave the lip sitting on the surface.

Do the countersinking properly, or don't do it all. You can spotface it with a flat bottomed tool like a 2 flute end mill, or use a Dremel to rout in the countersink. Hard to do the latter on a Les Paul unless you make a holdoff jig.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2020 6:50 pm 
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I leave the lip on the top of the guitar. But I also set the geometry so that would be the correct place for it.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2020 7:26 pm 
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Location: Napa Valley
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Status: Amateur
So I'm thinking I need to redo a mock up to figure out the string height and it will prob determine whether I counter sink or not.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2020 8:59 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
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First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
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While I am building a guitar I periodically put the bridge on something that simulates the studs - whatever kind I'm using (they are different). I set the neck angle so the fret plane just hits the tops of the saddles when the bridge is at what would be its lowest adjustment. I figure that to get playable action (say 60 to 90 thousands) I need to raise the saddles twice that - lets say 1/8 inch or a hair more. There are some other things that affect that (the strings pulling relief into the neck, action at the first fret, maybe a hair of body deformation) but I have found with almost every bridge I have ever worked with that that starting point will allow me to have what I consider playable action and enough adjustment both ways to allow for the future.

Obviously some things can change this - most particularly if you like your action higher - in that case I would build a little less angle into the neck to allow me to still be in the sweet spot of adjustment.

Here is a guitar that I am working on right now. The little pieces of wood emulate the total height of the base of the stud and the adjuster - that is as low as the bridge will be able to go. The straight edge is the fret plane, it is just resting on the top of the saddles. I know I can make this playable

Attachment:
IMG_6040.JPG


If I knew I was going to counter sink the stud into the top by 1/8 inch I would simple use a thinner block of wood at this stage.

Others might do it differently, this works for me


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
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Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
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Status: Amateur
I countersink the post lip slightly beneath the top.
I install the posts prior to applying the finish.

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