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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 12:29 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 11:00 pm
Posts: 498
First name: John
Last Name: Sonksen
City: PORTLAND
State: Oregon
Zip/Postal Code: 97216-2013
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi folks, I am wondering if there is any reason I couldn't use a pre-catalyzed, commercial lacquer typically used for finishing cabinets on my electric neck. I've been using a Valspar product at my shop for the last few years, in a satin sheen and a dull, and really like the build properties, as well as the feel of the stuff. It actually has a lot of similar properties to conversion varnish except it is a lot easier to deal with since it's got a longer open time and no mixing at the shop. I'm thinking I could get to where I need with film thickness in about 3-4 coats, which could be done in one day no problem.

I'm also curious as to why it doesn't seem like people use these products on their instruments. Is it tradition or are there some technical reasons why it's not really suited for instruments? Just to be upfront I'm not really concerned about any supposed tonal properties of one finish over another in this case. I don't like poly or a heavy nitro gloss finish on necks, and my first got a nice shellac finish which I like quite a bit. I'm looking for something a bit more durable on this one though, and was originally looking at tru-oil, but got turned off by the amount of coats it sounds like most people use.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:14 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2013 12:57 am
Posts: 4
First name: Ron
Last Name: Bales
I can't imagine there is any reason to not use the pre-cat you're familiar with.

Don't be put off by the number of tru oil coats we use, they go on very fast. I'll have the piece with me near my bench and every hour or half hour as my work load permits grab a coffee filter and wipe on another coat. Come in the next day and knock it down with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Rinse and repeat. in three days you're good to go.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:12 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 2739
Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
All the products I use are professional wood finishing products. And as far as i know all the major manufacturers do the same. IMO "instrument lacquers" is a marketing ploy.....One thing to be careful of with catalyzed finishes is the mil barrier. 5 mils is usually a maximum, any more than that and you will risk film failure down the road.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:21 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:34 pm
Posts: 2047
First name: Stuart
Last Name: Gort
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
B. Howard wrote:
...One thing to be careful of with catalyzed finishes is the mil barrier. 5 mils is usually a maximum, any more than that and you will risk film failure down the road.


Also...my limited experience with precats convinced me that film thickness plays a much bigger role than with regular lacquer in trapping those volatile bubbles that you (John Sonksen) were plagued with earlier. I abandoned the use of precats before I messed around with the additives that might have dealt with it.

I'm using catalyzed polyester now to produce a pore filled, mirror finish and haven't looked back at lacquer since. The precats are used primarily to speed up the finishing process and allow much shorter production schedules compared to regular lacquer. The catalyzed urethanes and polyesters can often be leveled and polished the next day.

You might consider using a varnish. With the help of Laurent Brondel I got some Epifanes varnish and developed a schedule that produced a VERY nice, natural (unfilled pores), hard, slippery finish with a simple wiping process. Eight wiped coats (cutting the stuff 50% with mineral spirits) looks and feels terrific and couldn't be easier to apply.

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These users thanked the author Stuart Gort for the post: dzsmith (Mon Jul 21, 2014 12:26 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:38 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 11:00 pm
Posts: 498
First name: John
Last Name: Sonksen
City: PORTLAND
State: Oregon
Zip/Postal Code: 97216-2013
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
So I think I'm going to give it a shot. I'm not too worried about surpassing 5 mils on the neck as I usually run about 1 dry mil per coat, and for cabs we typically give it 3 coats. I'm not doing any pore filling as I only have a limited amount of walnut on the back and the rest is maple. Now I just need to figure out if I want to go satin or matte...

Thanks for the input folks!


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