Official Luthiers Forum!

Being a player and not a luthier, I'm a noob here so hope this kind of post is OK?!

I'm looking for a custom neck built, and this is a little out of the ordinary...

My favorite guitars to play are Music Man Steve Morse models - just *love* the maple necks with oil/wax finish on them.

I recently picked up a Taylor T5z for gigging as it's got the best piezo/acoustic tone I've ever heard on an electric (it's from a company that specializes in acoustic, ! ) and it's got pretty good electric tones too.

When I travel for coffeehouse/bar gigs it's handy to cover both bases with one guitar - but the only thing I don't like about the T5z is the mahogany slick/finished neck...

So, is this an appropriate place to ask if anybody's in the neck making business? If not, can you direct me to somewhere I can contract for a neck?!

I'm happy to provide the existing neck as a template for building the new one - as, in case you didn't know, Taylor T5's have a *different* kind of neck joint. Check this out: http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/electric/t5/neck

In case you're interested in seeing the whole guitar as it presently exists, here's a link to that: http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/el ... t5z-custom

Specs on the neck I'm looking for is: Scale length 24 & 7/8" - rosewood for the fretboard - standard jumbo frets - 12" neck radius - nut width 1.6875"

Not particular on the headstock design (not trying to copy the Taylor here!) - would like either 3+3 or a nod towards Music Man with 4+2 - will figure that out later.

So, any takers or recommendations?!

kestrou

May be you could just have the finish of the neck stripped and refinished with an oil finish.
Taylor uses polyester I believe, this should be tough to remove but not impossible.

Alain,

That was my first thought, but the neck is mahogany - very different kind of grain and I'm sweating that an oil/wax finish wouldn't be nearly the same.

Anybody have any experience with oil/wax on a more open pored wood like mahogany?

kestrou

I use tru-oil on all my necks. Its linseed oil with some other secret things in it. They feel the same as maple to me after a bunch of coats and sanding. I like it alot better than factory necks that feel like they are dipped in plastic.

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Jason Moe
LaCrosse WI 54601

If it's just the feel/slide of the neck and not the shape, a refinishing is the way to go.

I've done a purpleheart neck with TruOil, that's at least as open pored as mahogany.
Initial porefill with shellac, sand that back to bare wood, and then a lot of very thin coats of TruOil, sanding back with 400 grit every three or four coats. Don't worry if the pores aren't completely filled when you put on the first coat, as long as they're sealed the oil will dry and fill them. You can put a coat on about every 4-6 hours, I let it dry overnight before sanding back. I've used 12-16 coats for maple, the purpleheart was closer to 40 coats. It's not quick, but it is relatively cheap and easy. It's something you could do yourself, the hardest part would be getting the polyester off. Sanding and/or scraping is the easiest, nothing softens polyester. I'd guess it would take about 20 hours stretched out over about six weeks to remove the polyester and put on the oil.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

Gang,

Thanks for the suggestions on just refinishing the existing neck - definitely the way to go and appreciate you pointing me that direction!

I called Taylor about getting another neck - possibly even unfinished - but they said they don't sell "just necks" as replacement parts. Told them what I want to do and he said that if I screw my neck up so bad that it needs replacing they will sell me a new one if I provide them the old one. So, I'm not *completely* screwed if this goes south! Oh yeah, confirmed that the finish is polyester, so this will be TOUGH STUFF to strip off...

Have done some woodworking, so the process doesn't scare me - but disheartened to hear that purple heart took 50 coats. Wow...

Actually, since I'm not in a white-knuckle hurry on this... Before I go stripping polyester off the neck of this $3K Taylor, I have a beater Epiphone SG laying around that I've been meaning to tear apart to component atoms and then rebuild. I think I'll do that project first with this style of neck finish and make sure all goes fairly well. Worst case I've trashed a $300 Epi!

Thanks again - have a clear path now and thank you for it - now to get time to get it done!!!

kestrou

Once you get the poly stripped off there is no need to put on 50 coats of TO. I do the majority of my necks in TO. I use a sanding slurry to pore fill the neck. Mixed a 50/50 solution of TO and mineral spirits (I use a teaspoon of each). I use a 3/4" by 3" medium soft sanding block and start with 150 grit, dip the block in the TO and start sanding, soon you will build up the slurry of dust and TO that will fill the pores. Allow it to dry overnight and repeat the slurry process with 220. You can work the slurry into the pores with your fingers if you need to. Then I sand to 1000 grit before I apply the straight TO, TO likes a very, very smooth surface. I apply at least 10 coats (usually 12-15), 2 hours between coats (usually take 2 days). Once it's dry you can leave it as is or go over it with 0000 steel wool for a satin smooth surface.

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"I've been had again"
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC

Can I suggest you try just knocking the gloss off the neck before doing the whole strip and re-fin.

Take either 4-0 steel wool, 1000 grit sandpaper or white 3M scotchbrite and using mineral oil as a lubricant, wet sand the back and sides of the neck. This will get it to feel much more like you're describing and won't be a major project.

Ben has the right advice on the tru-oil approach, that works beautifully on mahogany.

I'll agree with Ron, try sanding the poly with 1000 grit before you go for a complete refinish.
Ben-Had is also correct, I've used that method also and it works about as well.
Pore filling may be a moot point, I suspect the poly will stay in the pores so 12-20 coats of TruOil should be plenty.
The secret to applying TruOil is to heat it up to about 100°-110°F. Just hold the bottle under hot running water for a couple of minutes. That makes it go on a bit thinner and also helps a little with it leveling itself.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon