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Hello,
I am a newbie. I'm building my fourth guitar and have been experimenting with Minwax wipe-on poly. So far, the results have been great. I'm using epoxy fill on walnut, sanding, and then the poly. The poly dries much quicker than nitro lacquer and I have been able to sand and polish it.
Anyone else used poly? Any tips, suggestions, or criticism?
Thanks,
Dan

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I have used it once before and it was an ok experience. I almost felt like I was doing something wrong because it seemed too easy. haha Results were decent. I did not sand or polish it, I just used very fine steel wool to buff it to a matte.

What grit sandpaper are you putting to it? What are you using to polish it?

Thanks, good to know I may not be crazy.
I wet sanded with 600 and polished it with Macguier's swirl remover.
My sample pieces are small, so I'm not sure how much effort it will take to do a guitar. I've had my fill of the lacquering process and the painfully slow drying time. I assume the poly is going on very thin and may take many applications.

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I don't have any tips or criticism, and if you're getting good results that is excellent. I always found the exact opposite to be true however; lacquer dries in next to no time and poly, even the wipe on type seems to take forever to dry, attracting dust nibs all the while.

Like I said though, if you're getting great results, excellent and keep it up.

Darrin

Update: So far, so good. I had to mask the edge of the rosewood fretboard because the poly will not dry on it.
It's already been 99 degrees in the shade down here, so wiping the poly indoors is a real treat.
I'm wiping on one coat and allowing it to dry overnight. I've got 4 coats on now.

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Not to confuse the issue, but the OP's observations and yours are both correct.
Nitro flashes very quickly, as in minutes, so the surface is dry and dust wont stick to it. It does however, take a long time to fully dry as the solvent gasses off over the course of several days to weeks depending upon how thick the finish is.
Wipe on Poly on the other hand, takes a while to "flash" so to speak, so the surface remains tacky for some time allowing dust to settle on it and become part of the finish. However, to fully cure, it takes only a few hours due to the thin nature of the application and the fact that it is curing, not drying like nitro. Curing is a chemical reaction that takes place within the poly and alters it's composition, and I believe causes some sort of static charge which attracts dust in order to screw up your finish and make you do this instead of this

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PMoMC

I've put on four coats of poly.
I just buffed it with steel wool and will put on another coat today.
I am seeing a few dust nibs here and there.
The local Walnut I used has some nice rays in it. I could not see them until I put the poly on.
Dan

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After five coats, I wet sanded with 1000 grit. I went through the poly down to the wood very quickly. The poly must be very thin. This is turning out to be more time and work than lacquer. I doubt I can get the finish thick enough to sand and polish by wiping on the finish. I'm thinking of brushing a couple of thick coats, but I will wipe on some more through the end of the week. Lint and nibs are becoming more prominent. - Just thought I'd share my experiences.
Thanks,
Dan

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Lacquer is the easiest and fastest finish.
Wipe on poly is very thin each coat,
so you need to put many coats on.
You can't put a "thicker" coat on.
Also sand between coats so the last "nibs" aren't there on the next coats.
Dust is definitely a problem here.
It is a harder, more durable finish than lacquer.
All finishes have their problems.
With 5 coats, you're maybe a third of the way there.
Good luck,
take your time,
and learn from your boo-boo's.

Thanks Alan, I'll keep after it. I did coat the surfaces with an epoxy / alcohol concoction before I applied the poly, so at least the poly isn't being sucked up by the wood. Dan

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I'm not sure wipe-on poly is really more durable than lacquer - I also think it (and oil) are easier finishes to apply to a good standard than lacquer is per se.

Polyester and polyurethane (catalyzed finishes, either 2K or UV) are tougher stuff, but there's huge variation between products.

I surrender. After three weeks of dorking with the poly, I sanded it off and began spraying lacquer.
The poly was riddled with dust nibs and was just too thin to sand smooth.
I think the poly is a good product, it was hard and very clear, but my application techniques were not up to par.

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