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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 3:38 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 3:27 pm
Posts: 213
First name: Alex
Last Name: Takacs
State: Illinois
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello all. For my current build, I decided that I'd like to try one of the Coumpound Radius fingerboards from Stewmac. Coumpound radius means that the fretboard starts with a 10" radius, but gradually tapers to a 14.5" radius to better match the way that the strings lay over the fretboard. I do have a little confusion though. Normally when you inlay a fretboard, you sand the inlays down flush with a radiused sanding block. I dont have that option here because the fretboard is compound. What are your reccomendations for the inlay installation/sanding down the inlays in this situation (I would prefer to avoiud buyng every radiused sanding block between 10" and 14.5")? Thanks in advance for your help! -Alex

Here is the fretboard that Im using http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bodies,_nec ... named=true


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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 3:51 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:37 pm
Posts: 1740
Location: Virginia, USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
If I did not have the appropriate radius blocks, I'd try to inlay them as close to flush as possible, then use either a scraper(if one will work with pearl. I have no idea as I've never tried it), or use a small file to file the inlay flush with the radius of the board, and finish up with some hand sanding.
That's just what I would try. I'm sure there are better ways. Maybe someone else here who knows will post.

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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:59 pm
Posts: 3592
First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
City: Kansas City
State: MO
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I think Mike's got it. Scrapers work great on pearl, especially because they don't fluff the dust into the air like sanding does. Dulls pretty quickly, but since you'll probably only be using a small portion of the blade at a time, you can cycle across the width (and both sides) of the edge to get a lot of material removed between resharpenings :)


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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 4:49 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 3:27 pm
Posts: 213
First name: Alex
Last Name: Takacs
State: Illinois
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks for the advice, what type of scraper do you reccomend (are you talking about cabinet scrapers?)


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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 5:19 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:37 pm
Posts: 1740
Location: Virginia, USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
This kind is what i would use.
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Scrapers&NameProdHeader=Handscrapers

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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:59 pm
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First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
City: Kansas City
State: MO
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Yep, just a plain old rectangular cabinet scraper. I bought a set at Woodcraft, but I pretty much only ever use the rectangle (with corners rounded over so they don't leave scratches when smoothing wood, or poke into my hands uncomfortably). Just buy the individual 0.8mm from LMI and you should be good to go :) Oh, and a burnisher to sharpen it.


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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:52 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 2:03 am
Posts: 198
Location: USA
First name: Brett
Last Name: Faust
City: Puyallup
State: WA
Zip/Postal Code: 98373
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Done it many times over the years. A flat sanding block with 100 grit to start always worked best for me. Shell is so much harder than wood that scraping may give you a ripple where wood meets shell. This happens when you let your sandpaper get dull also.
Hope that helps,have fun.

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