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 Post subject: Waterlox Experiment
PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:43 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:52 pm
Posts: 103
First name: Russell
Last Name: LaRoche
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
So I've been experimenting a lot lately on finishes. Right now I really like the way Waterlox is really bringing out the color of the wood in the way shown below. These pictures are unstained mahogany and maple. Only 2 wiped coats have been applied. I think I will wipe one more coat and then see how finishing it off with tru-oil will go. I want to be able to level off the top maple and get a gloss, but leave the back and neck alone for a smooth natural wood feel.

BEFORE:
Image

AFTER:
Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Waterlox Experiment
PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 2:39 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:52 pm
Posts: 103
First name: Russell
Last Name: LaRoche
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Filippo Morelli wrote:
Waterlox is buildable, albeit it takes a number of coats. You will get a finish that is semi-gloss and will resist fluids. I've also played with a french polish like mixture using a muneca with some shellac, tung oil (similar to waterlox) and a smidge of oil, once I've built the finish up a bit. This lets me work up to a gloss.

Note that these finishes will provide a bit of a yellow tint to your maple. If that is the look you want, you'll get a nice hue.

Filippo

I have the Waterlox Marine High Gloss which I originally intended to put on top of these first few coats of the Waterlox Original sealer, but since the Gloss formula isn't recommended or designed to be wiped on I thought I would try Tru-oil over the sealer instead since I know it is applied by hand rub and that it can obtain a high gloss. Applying the Waterlox has been very challenging when trying to use even a very good quality brush because of the curves of the guitar. It's great when applying to flat surfaces using a brush, but it really is a beast to apply to a guitar. I found it better to wipe it on and not experience the runs.

Have you ever sanded the Waterlox to get a flat surface? This is something I'm not sure of as the site says not to sand with anything but 4/0 steel wool for example. I'm thinking that any very fine sanding marks won't 'burn' or 'melt' away with the next coats.

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