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Hi! I'm finishing my first project. I painted the guitar a solid color, but used a white primer coat first. When I wet sanded the primer coat preparatory to laying down the color coat the water and paint dust slurry got on the edges of my fingerboard, and now the rosewood pores are filled with white. I've tried naphtha with a clean cloth, naphtha with a tooth brush, I've tried sanding, etc. The pores are still filled with the white slurry. I thought of applying paint thinner, but since the neck is finished any little runs of the thinner onto the finish equals trouble. What can I do?

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

I don’t think there is a quick fix for this. You’ll have to be patient and spend some time here.
Because you have already tried sanding, I'm assuming that the white dust is in the pores and around the pores is dark wood? I would use some magnifying glasses (I get these at the dollar store. Reading glasses strength 4.0 is good) and a bright light and a sharp sewing needle. Then go over the affected area inch by inch and try to dig out as much of that white primer as you can. Then use some black or dark brown dye (you can get this from shoe repair places. The dye used on leather is basically the same thing as NGR dye. make sure it doesn't have any oils in it) and a very small artists paintbrush that has a tip like a needle. Using a very small amount of dye on the brush, touch the pores that are still showing white and paint them black. The white primer should absorb the black dye better than the surrounding wood.
You should be able to eliminate all the white in this way. When you are finished and happy with how it looks, use some clear epoxy (I use West Systems for many of my repairs) and with another small brush (bigger than the last one. You can get these from the dollar store too), very carefully paint the edge of the finger board without getting any on the top of the board. Let the guitar rest with this surface facing up so the epoxy has no chance of running anywhere. It is important that you put enough epoxy to effectively fill the pores and have enough on the surface for sanding. You will have to do each side separately.
After about 24 hours you can use a hard block and wet-sand the epoxy starting with about 400 grit and working your way up to polishing grade. Mask off the top of the fingerboard and then put your finish on. When you polish your finish you will be polishing the repair at the same time.
That’s what I would do but other people may have other ideas.

Thanks for the reply. This is what I feared. I'd gone over this in my head and pretty much come to the same conclusion. Your post just verified it for me. I was just hoping someone else had run into the same problem and knew an easier way. That still may be the case, but I'm not holding my breath. We must do what we must do. Thanks again for the recommendation. I'll put it to good use.

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

Well, I donned my $8 magnifier head set(worth considerably more than I paid), grabbed the sewing needle..... and found that I did not have one fine enough to do the job. But I'm a diabetic, and have to test myself by pricking my finger each morning. The lancets I use have what are billed as "ultra fine" needles. Worked like a charm.
It wasn't as tedious as I thought it would be. Took me about an hour, and after digging the stuff out of the pores I hit it with some naphtha again. Beautiful! No need for stain. After I clear coat the edges of the fretboard it will be fine. Thanks again.

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

Glad that worked out for you! I have one of the magnifier headsets too. Got it from Harbor Freight for super cheap too.
I was going to recommend, if you already had a sealer or top over your paint coat, mineral spirits would not eat the finish (Laquer based atleast. I have no clue about others). Of course if your paint is basically pigmented laquer then it wouldn't do you any good either. Building cabinets we glaze doors (for the antique look) after they've been sealed and then wipe off the excess with mineral spirits and then topcoat.