Official Luthiers Forum!

Hey everyone,

I have a veneering quandary I'm hoping to get answered by you pros. How would I go about slapping a burl veneer on a dome topped instrument? The instrument in question is an ibanez sabre series I am retopping with a nice walnut burl veneer. Flat top-easy. I'm worried about a domed top, though. Will I get wrinkles around the waist, or will the veneer "stretch" over the highest point (bridge area) to allow for a flat, wrinkle-less surface? Do I HAVE to use a vacuum set up, or is there a way to evenly disperse weights around the top? So many questions from the lurker....

Thanks in advance!

In my experience:

1. Vacuum setup is a must
2. You have to be skilled in working out potential wrinkle areas during vacuum application. If the top is too curved for the burl to distibute the stress / deformations easily, it will tear/ wrinkle.

It is a difficult thing. The first time I tried to do this, I ended up sanding the top off and laying on a full 0.5" of the wood I wanted in order to recarve the top. I have never turned back from that method.

Let us know what you try!
Stephen

_________________
www.ziegenfussguitars.com

I've never done this, but if I were to try, I think I'd pre-treat the veneer with a 'softener' like SuperSoft II.

It might help.

I've done quite a bit of (flat) veneering as well as curved laminations, and I agree 100% with Stephen's comments.

Cheers
John

Veneer has very little stretch. I think what you are proposing is not possible.

When I make archtop plates with veneer, I cut "darts" at a few points around the lower arch to allow the veneer to conform to the plate. But this is utilizing a vacuum bag and a two part form.