DGr33n wrote: Dennis, That is an awesome design, Its pretty much exactly what I was thinking. Acouple of question though, On plunge base routers, is there a lock to set your depth after you have "plunged" the surface. Also once I have plunged the surface(however possible)could I just use my fixed base at a shallow depth to continue the routing? Like if i drilled a shallow 3/8" hole then used a 1/4" straight bit, starting in the drilled hole to start the routing. Thank you guys for all your help! Daniel 
Hi Daniel,
Sorry, I didn't see your reply.
Hmmm... Plunge routers generally do not have a "lock", so that you can retract the still spinning bit whenever you want by releasing your downward hand pressure. But I'm not sure that was your question, and you may be wondering about setting a depth stop. Plunge routers usually (always?) have some sort a sort of "stop" that allows you to pre-set the desired maximum depth of the plunge, and a spring (or springs) to allow you to relax the downward pressure brings the bit back up.
The reason that I made my rosette cutter a "reverse plunge router" (still don't know what to call it), is so I would not have to fuss with downward pressure to make the cut, and I could then concentrate on holding the jig lower with both hands, to get more control over the bit as it advances through cuts that are against the grain as well as with the grain. So, in effect, I do "lock" my router in the plunged position (well, it is held down by springs), and I only need to worry about retracting the bit. The depth stops for the unit I made are the nuts just below the plunge platform (curly Maple.) To keep the stop nuts from moving on their own, I could have used nylon lined (Nylock) nuts there, or a pair of nuts ("jam nuts"), but for reasons I can't remember, I used springs which does keep the nuts from turning on their own.
One of the big issues that is solved by a plunge router is to eliminate the kick associated with the overall tool on startup. ("Soft start" have less of a kick, but there will always be a little.) You can also neatly stop routing whenever you want without fumbling for a switch, and eliminate the bit wiggling in the work at shutdown, by retracting the bit from the work before shutdown.
DGr33n wrote: once I have plunged the surface(however possible)could I just use my fixed base at a shallow depth to continue the routing? Like if i drilled a shallow 3/8" hole then used a 1/4" straight bit, starting in the drilled hole to start the routing. Yes, if the area to be removed is large enough, you could do that. Careful on startup that you do not make contact with the side of your drilled hole before you are ready, as that may cause a drastic, out-of-control cut. A foot switch would help with that, and maybe full safety goggles rather than glasses so you can get your eyes close to the work. I have also used a router with a standard base to make a "tilt plunge", where you contact one edge of the base, turn on the router, and tilt it into the work. Obviously, you need to have some leeway to do that successfully, as you'll rarely ever get clean entrance and exit of the bit (unless you trap a square router base between wood stops or a template. If you are going to use a standard base and tilt plunge, cut, then try to lift straight up or tilt out the still spinning bit, I'd recommend you practice on scrap of somewhat the same density before trying your good wood.
HTH,
Dennis
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