I just use a router to go around the edge of the body to set a uniform depth then hit it with a grinder and abrasive wheel to hog off the meat and finish off with planes and sandpaper. The grinder is messy but it works fast.
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| LP/PRS body taper http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10123&t=19917 |
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| Author: | Rob Warren [ Fri Dec 05, 2008 7:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | LP/PRS body taper |
These carved top bodies taper from a high point at the bridge, down to the thickness at the neck. How do you guys accomplish this? Seems like a lot of work with a plane. Wondering if anyone uses their thickness sander or planer to do this. I was thinking a tapered jig, double side taped to the bottom, would allow it to go through and let the machine do this for you. What say you???? |
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| Author: | SniderMike [ Sat Dec 06, 2008 1:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
I just taper mine from the neck/body joint to the end of the fingerboard, and do it with a handplane. Anyway, I think your idea of a sled with a shim would work fine. Maybe some wooden stops on both ends, glued or nailed in place, instead of just double sided tape. |
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| Author: | Rob Warren [ Sun Dec 07, 2008 1:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
Well, kind of answered my own question. Tried to thin the cut off for my scarf joint in the planer and that didn't work. I think because there's really no place for the drive rollers to hold to, it bounced around and made a mess of it. I think the same thing would happen with a piece that was fed through with the angled shims underneath. Good news is I was able to salvage it. It's all clamped up and drying now. So I guess I'll have to do it by hand. Shouldn't be too bad. Thanks for the reply. |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Sun Dec 07, 2008 1:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
I made a table saw sled and clamped the body to it. Set the angle of the blade and to max height and let it rip through. I then completed the ramp with a hand plane. Works like a charm. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
Google Myka Guitars Neck jig (or look it up on ProjectGuitar.com's forums) for a router jig setup that's usable for anything from fitting set necks at the right angle easily (what it was designed for) to routing the reference angle into a top (what I do when the wood's too figured/is fighting my handplane too much). |
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| Author: | sbjguitars [ Wed Dec 10, 2008 11:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
I just use a router to go around the edge of the body to set a uniform depth then hit it with a grinder and abrasive wheel to hog off the meat and finish off with planes and sandpaper. The grinder is messy but it works fast. |
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| Author: | Rich Schnee [ Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
Rob…I use two tapered wedges cut from ¾” stock and tape them to the bottom of the body. Then I run it through my drum sander. The sander takes longer than my planner but it eliminates tear-out on figured maple. It’s real simple and easy. |
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| Author: | Erik Hauri [ Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: LP/PRS body taper |
+1 build a sled and run it through the thickness sander. You'll need to keep your hands on the body to prevent it from sliding around on the sled, but a little double-stick tape helps. Trig is your friend to calculate the thickness of the shim propping it up, to get you the neck angle you need. Here I am sanding only just enough to get me to the end of the fretboard (white outline).  
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