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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 2:13 pm 
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Walnut
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First name: Blake
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City: Apache Junction
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Country: United States
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I am planning a neck-thru build and would like to do as much from scratch as possible. Still in the planning and tool collecting phase, but I really want to have my "P's and Q's" in order before I start. Anyway, the recent acquisition of a 6"x80" edge sander along with a jig idea for putting a compound (conical, rather) radius on a fretboard has me seriously considering making my own ebony fretboard (I'd priced out a radiused and slotted ebony board for around $100).

Here is where I come to my question (hopefully to be answered by some more experienced luthiers):

Would it be okay to "glue-up" or laminate ebony for a fretboard? A local wood supplier (Woodworkers' Source) sells 2"x1"x24" ebony blanks for $35. After surfacing and ripping along the thickness, I believe I could get 2 blanks appx 5/16"-3/8" thick out of that stock, but 2" isn't wide enough at the 24th fret for the fretboard I have drawn up. Since I won't need 24", I have considered cutting down the excess and gluing 1/4"-3/8" "ears" on either side of the board at the lower frets prior to radiusing, and then cutting to the neck profile as needed.

I know that modern wood glues provide a very strong bond, and it seems like the small percentage of the actual finished fretboard that are glued on combined with the meat of the body and neck supporting behind the fretboard make this seem like a viable solution. I do NOT know if there would be any ramifications on the tone, though. As well, many ideas that look great on paper end up less than desirable in application. Does anyone have any experience or insight into this?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:44 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Not that there would be anything wrong with a laminated FB, I am using a book-matched Bocote FB on one of my current builds but you can actually by a blank from Bob at RC Tonewoods for less than that. I buy mine from them and they are very nice as is all the wood I get from them.

http://rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store/fret-b ... -p-96.html

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:14 pm 
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Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
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I cut three strips of flat sawn Mesquite and glued them together with the edge grain facing up for appearance.
I used Titebond 1 and I have not had any problems with it.
I made a book-matched Pecan fretboard too.
I bought a pre-slotted Ebony board from Stewmac for $40.00 that is quite nice.
Grizzly sells very affordable Ebony blanks, so you may want to shop around.
DZ


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:50 pm 
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Cocobolo
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It would probably work fine as long as you joint the ebony well and the particular peice is uniformly black. Ebony is probably the easiest wood to patch so I imagine you could possibly do a seamless job gluing ears on it. The worst thing might be patching the seams around the ears if they are visible. Ebony dust and CA should make it look perfect. Wouldn't recommend any of this on any other wood.

In terms of stability, I would think that since it would be ultimately glued to a neck, you shouldn't have a problem there either.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 1:00 am 
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Koa
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Yup, made several bookmatched fretboards and never had any issues.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:54 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I'm inclined to do this with the next few guitars. I'm going to pick out some Macassar Ebony for the fretboard. I think I'll use epoxy to glue it though...just gives me a bit of security since I'm basically friends with this formulation I use. Other glues may never separate but this stuff will never EVER separate. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:51 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I would just buy a fb blank from Allied and be done with it,
unless you want some bookmatched thing going on.


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:49 am 
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If you are planning to resaw ebony, be sure to give it some time to settle after you open it up. Dense woods like that have a tendency to cup after resawing - the outside face will become convex.

Kevin Looker

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:38 am 
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Filippo that is one great looking fingerboard, have you a photo of the rest of the guitar.

Fred

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:43 pm 
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Koa
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Gluing on ears should be fine structurally. It should be pretty invisible unless you see a glue line
One idea I had was to put the ear on one side with a contrasting wood. It could be a cool design element to have a maple wedge on one side. Maybe shape it to compliment the headstock shape? I dunno....just a thought


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