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Anyone ever used this stuff? I had heard a lot of good stuff about it from searching around online. I'm using it for the first time now. The oil that builds up on the plastic binding is still tacky after 6+ hours. The wood surface is dry and far from shiny yet, as all the oil soaked in but the binding is just really giving me problems. Guess I'll have to check it in the morning. This is really going to be a pain if I can only do 1 coat a day though. I've used regular wipe on tru oil several times and I don't remember the oil on the binding remaining tacky quite like this.

James,
I have used it because my local hardware store mistakenly got me in a can of it instead of the bottled stuff.
It works fine, but you've got to use it much like the wipe-on bottled variety. Spray it on a cloth and wipe it on. Or spray it on your wood and then use a cloth to wipe the excess off. If I read you correctly, your wood is dry and your plastic binding is oily. I'd say that's because it is still striking into your wood, but your plastic is impervious. Wipe that stuff off your plastic! Now! Go more slowly. You will need patience. This stuff is a good finish, but it must be built up in many, many, MANY thin coats. I said MANY thin coats. I can't stress this enough. If you're in a warm, dry room, you can apply a coat every two hours or so, wiping excess off after each session. Hang your work to dry in the warmest part of the room overnight. Gently buff it with 0000-steel wool before the next day's sessions. Meticulously wipe, blow and vacuum off those steel wool fibers before the next session. Repeat this process over many days.

Wait a minimum of two weeks after the final coat before trying to polish your finish. A month is even better. If you are truly patient, this stuff will harden up well enough to buff to a very wonderful gloss finish. Another benefit is that it is easily repairable, should that need arise in the future.

Here's proof that it can work very well. Guitar top is water-borne spray, but the tailpiece is aerosol Tru Oil:

Never tried Tru oil but wouldn't mind giving it a whirl. How is this stuff different then say Watco danish oil or other wiping varnishes? Is it tougher?

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Guitars, guitars and more guitars.

I have not tried danish oil or many other wipe on finishes. I have only done nitro, tru oil and wipe on poly.

But from what I understand, Tru Oil soaks into the wood, like all oil finishes, but will also actually build upon itself, unlike many oil finishes.

So, if you have the proper patience and skills, you can create either an "in" the wood finish or an "on top" of the wood finish with tru oil. Is this also true of danish oil?

I have seen a good number of examples of people who build up tru oil enough to level sand and buff to a high gloss that looks quite similar to lacquer. I've never tried this, but so called "witness lines" between tru oil coats would concern me. But apparently it can be done.

I've had a can of this sitting around for a while now, haven't tried it out. Someone had advised not to use it as an aerosol, so I went with a tung oil finish instead. That is one finish that I really enjoyed using, but I'm so impatient that I need to refinish on my next string change. Let me know how it turns out in the end, I may try it on my next natural finished build.

Watco danish oil can build up slightly. I wouldn't say you can get a thick shiny coat with it. I know it has something like 75% oil to 25% varnish solids. In the end it still looks like a wipe on oil finish more so. I have used wipe on poly too. That will build a lot more then danish oil. But I like the look of danish on some electric guitars made from such woods as walnut and mahogany. Its a thin almost natural feeling. But I don't care for a finish like this on acoustics. So maybe tru oil might be what I'm looking for on acoustics.

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Guitars, guitars and more guitars.

You can't wipe on a thick coat of any of these wiping varnishes and expect them to dry properly. The trick is using many thin coats, so it's not for the impatient among you. If you don't want it to strike into the wood, you can apply it over a sealer coat of shellac. Either way, it will build. SLOWLY, but beautifully. I don't believe it is as hard a finish as lacquer, but the great thing is that it is almost infinitely repairable. You buff it gently with fine steel wool, wipe and blow all the fibers off (be meticulous), and apply a few more coats. Remember, it started out as a gun stock finish, and I doubt there's a guitar out there that gets as abused as a gun stock during bird season. See Robbie Obrian's you tube video about applying it with a rag.

I used TruOil, just the wipe on, on my last. I can't see spraying it to help any. It's wiping it off, as mentioned that's important.

FWIW, I really love the stuff. Non-toxic, easy to do despite the weather, and insdoors....I just applied it until I liked the sheen. 8-10 coats from memory. I wanted a satin finish, but have seen other's guitars that were burnished to a very high gloss.