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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 5:15 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Issaquah, Washington USA
This pic shows the tilt I have in my floating bridge. Seems to me it should be more vertical. How can I fix this? I wonder if I should increase the depth of the base so the screws have less room to tilt?
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:30 pm 
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Koa
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A deeper base could help, for sure, but won't fix the whole problem...

Maybe the angle of the strings after the saddle is to low.

Francis

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 7:04 pm 
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Koa
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I think you are right. My string angle to bridge is around 6 degrees. Benedetto says that a 13 to 14 degree angle is optimal. The best I can hope for with some adjustments to my tail piece is 11 to 12 degrees. Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:08 pm 
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You should be good with 11-12.. but, you should recheck your design, 'cause Benedetto is right. Around 13-14-15°, it seems to be the best, for steel string, at both nut and saddle.

Good luck!
Francis

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:52 pm 
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Are the holes you drilled in the base too big?
I would make a wider base,
and make the holes very snug.
You might be able to loosen the strings, re-seat the saddle so it's straight, and let the adjustment knobs bear the weight of the string tension.
For an electric, I don't think the angle is AS important as on an acoustic.
I have some experience with that one........


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:11 am 
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Are you not able to just straighten it using your fingers? the string pressure should hold it upright. How's your intonation?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:35 am 
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Alan, the bridge is a commercial one from Stewmac I believe - the post holes were pretty snug. Darrel, there seems to be too much tension on the bridge for me to move it with my fingers. I notice on my friend's ES-175 that the base is taller so the posts are not so high off the base, consequently there's no tilt.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:48 am 
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It be my practice to set bridges at 90 degrees to the deck on the back side with the fulcrum or apex of the bridge equally bisecting the stings. Visually this will make the bridge appear to be tilting backwards towards the tail piece. However this is for wooden bridges on arch topped instruments. I would assume the same idea applies to Tune-o-matics, Roller bridges and the like.


blessings
duh Padma

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:59 am 
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Koa
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That is what happens when the strings are tuned to pitch and the saddle slots are not smooth. Try sanding or filing them very smooth and lubricate them with something like graphite.

Are you able to screw the posts down a little more? That will help also.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 10:22 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Make a one-piece compensated wooden bridge. That would look so cool! Once you've set up your guitar, use the bridge height as a base template.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 6:49 pm 
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Koa
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Good ideas. I'm considering putting two thumbscrews on each side. I could make the base taller so that the bridge piece sits lower.

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