Official Luthiers Forum!

Hey folks,
I'm working on a stew Mac kit, and I have the sides glued together as well as the kerfing. I have not glued the top or back on. My problem is that the neck block is not very well aligned with the seam where the sides meet. It is 3/32 of an inch off. I am thinking I will take it off and try again since I'm not in a hurry to finish the guitar. I used titebond and I have a iron, my question is: what is the technique for loosening the glue? I don't want to scorch the wood or deform it somehow, but I don't think I will be satisfied with a neck that isn't on center with the body. How long do you think the procedure might take (until the block comes off again.). Thanks.

this isn't that hard to do. Set the iron to med hi heat , then you need a flexible putty knife. Set the iron on the area of the block and after a minute or so see if you can get the knife into the joint. Don't force it as you will feel the glue start to give.
You should have it all off in less than 4-5 minutes.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

And clean off the old glue down to clean wood before re-gluing. I've used vinegar on rags for this purpose, and it does the job. When I did that, I wasn't sure what glue I was dealing with--it wasn't mine. You then want to wash with naphtha, alcohol, whatever, to be sure no vinegar is left behind. Better craftsmen will probably chime in with better methods, but don't overlook getting the old glue off.

Patrick

A pallet knife (go to Dick Blick's on Sawmill Road) might be easier to work in than a putty knife. Pallet knives are thinner & smaller.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

The best tool I use is a knife from Pampered chef used for icing a cake. Thin flexible and much stronger than pallet knives .

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Ok, thanks everyone! I did what you said, and it came off cleanly. I sanded the the glue residue until i got to the wood so I'm pretty sure I had clean surfaces again, and now the neck block is back on alignment.

Another question I have is this: I just glued the top onto the sides. I was a little off when I glue this as well (the soundhole is about 3 mm (about a 1/10 of an inch) lower than it should be according to the plans.). This means that the bridgplate will be 3 mm lower than the location of the bridge as well. Do you think I should cut out a new bridgplate so that it covers the full surface under the bridge, or should I take the top off and realign it again?

In terms of acoustics will it make a lot more difference if my bridge sits 3mm closer to the center of the x brace? Or if the plate is perfectly centered under the bridge?

Maybe I should accept a little imperfection here or there for my second build, but if it will make a big difference in terms of sound I want I fix it. I imagine that the sound will be a bit tightened. This guitar is a mahog dreadnaught with Sitka.

Others can chime in here better than me, but I would consider bridge placement, or at least saddle placement, critical. Moving it can have an effect on intonation, if it is too far out, you may nevr be able to get the guitar in tune. What is most critical is placement of the saddle relative to the nut. Not sure what the best answer is, but you might want to keep that in mind.

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

Thanks for the response. I understand that the saddle's distance to the nut is critical for intonation. On my guitar the whole top of the guitar is slightly (lower) than it should be. Meaning the sound hole will be closer to the bridge by small amount. The exact distance is listed in my precious post. This means that the bridge will sit a little closer to the x brace and all of the other braces are slightly shifted forwards as well. I decided I will take the bridge plate off and put a better one on, which will cover the underside of the bridge better. For those of you in the know, how do you think this might effect the sound? I hope this guitar isnt going to sound crappy because of this.. But I will find out!

As far as the bridge plate goes, as long as the bridge pin holes are on the bridge plate you will be fine.

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Old growth, shmold growth!