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I got open gear Gotohs that came with my LMI kit. I'm little confused about how to install them. I know after I drill the hole for the shaft of the tuners I'll have to ream the top out to accept the bushings. I bought the cheaper reamer from LMI- hope that's what I need. http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproduc ... le+Reamers

My issue is, what size hole do I drill for the shaft? I measured the shaft right at 1/4" but there are some washers at the bottom of the shaft that are slightly wider. I'm not sure if the entire shaft should be the diameter of those washers or if I should just ream that side too.

Who know installing tuners was going to be one of the hard parts I got the neck set without asking any questions

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Jeremy Douglas

Hi Jeremy
Ive never used the Gotoh's but I have used Waverlys plenty of times and it sounds like they install the same way.
I have installed the by drilling a hole the size of the bushing, I think its like 8.? mm and then letting the bushing support the post, I have also use the reamer by drilling a 1/4" hole then the reamer widens the end where the bushing is installed.

Hope this helps!

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Jeremy,

I just installed some of these. I used Stewmac's bushing reamer which allows you to drill a 1/4 hole (the shaft size) and use that hole to guide the reamer on the headstock face. As for the little part next to the gear that is wider I let a bit self center and just cut enough for that part to fit in the rear of the headstock. I wanted as much of the 1/4 inch shaft to catch the post as possible. That is the only tuner I have ever seen that needed 3 different opening sizes. Here is a link to the Stewmac reamers:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Reame ... amers.html

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Burton
http://www.legeytinstruments.com
Brookline, MA.

Thanks guys. Sounds like there's a few ways to do it. I'll drill the hole 1/4" and go from there. That'll at least give a me hair more grace room should any tear out occur.

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Jeremy Douglas

I quit using the Gotohs for all of the above reasons. The bushing is bigger than the Waverly so the standard Stew Mac Waverly reamer is not optimal. SM has some new sizes and one of them probably works. The shaft is just a tish over 1/4" and is quite snug in a 1/4" hole plus the face that you have to countersink the back side for the flange on the back. One last thing, don't ever get the SM conversion bushings to allow you to put them in holes drilled for conventional tuners. They are too tight. The shaft on the Gotohs is just a little fatter than a Waverly.
If you use Gotohs Lances approach is easiest.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I got that reamer from LMI today. The degree of taper is such that by the time the hole is big enough for the bushing the hole on the back of the headstock will be bigger than 1/4" anyway. I've got it figured out though. Thanks everybody

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Jeremy Douglas

You may already know this, Jeremy, but if you wind up with a slightly loose bushing, dab a tiny bit of superglue onto the bushing and press it into place. It should hold.

Drill your 1/4" hole for the shaft then use "piloted reamers" to make the holes for the face bushing and a shallow countersunk hole on the back of the headstock to seat the small shaft support flange. The piloted reamers will cut straight sided holes cleaner than a whistle. Mark the one you use to cut the bushing hole for the depth of the bushing and use a drill press. This will leave you the maximum 1/4" shaft support hole and fit the bushing snugly in place.
Piloted reamers are available from places like MSC Industrial Supply. I have a number of them for various boring needs like tuners, end jacks for pickups, etc. All use a 1/4" pilot and my jigs are all set to drill these holes, then ream to final diameters as needed.

I use Gotohs all the time. Great tuners!

If you want the part numbers/reamer sizes, PM me and I'll get them for you tonight.

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Hank Mauel

Thanks Hank but I've already drilled and used a tapered reamer to open them up. Plus I don't have a drill press but if I build another one that will be the first tool I buy. I'll keep the piloted reamers in mind, thanks for the tip.

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Jeremy Douglas

Jeremy buddy this pic shows the "step" that the Waverly peg head reamer creates: