Official Luthiers Forum!

Anyone know of good double sided tape? I used to use the carpet tape at Home Depot but I'm sure there is better out there! Will be primarily used for fingerboards and possibly Necks.

Thanks,
Dave

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David
Vancouver, BC

Try the black woven outdoor carpet tape from HD. It works very well. There's always going to be creep potential with tape, so it's best to have some index pins that can register the part and keep it from shifting in the X, Y directions.

I get the jig tape from Highland woodworking...it's good stuff. 3M has some stuff that is pretty good as well, but it is a bit thicker. The link below is for the 3" wide stuff...good for necks, fingerboards, etc..

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3864

I locate parts using press fit wooden dowels...and stick em down with the tape. You'll get a lot more holding power out of the tape if you use dowels with it.

Trev

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

Thanks! I'll give those a try.

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David
Vancouver, BC

I am a huge fan of a 3M product called "paper tape" - it is basically paper coated with adhesive on both sides, so it will hold strong while still being thin. It has a plastic outer-layer that is like green-colored checkerboard, which peels off after you've stuck it down.

The product number is 410B - double-coated paper tape.

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The member formerly known as erikbojerik....

An alternative to double sided tape is CA. ("Super glue" for those of you not addicted to the stuff)
A few drops of the medium stuff can have plenty of holding power for fixturing.
I like it in conjunction with aluminum fixture plates as it's easy to scrape off any residue after removal of the part being machined.
A shot a accelerator on the fixture plate with drops of CA on the part will fixture it quickly.
Without accelerator will give you a little "open time" for positioning the part but the bond is harder to break when removing the part.
Your mileage will vary according to the octane and ingredients.
A knife blade wedged or tapped between the fixture and part will normally pop it loose with either method.
I try to keep the CA away from edges of the wood part so it doesn't tend to splinter when removing.
I do scuff the aluminum with coarse paper to give the CA something to bite.
My beef with double side tape is removing it after use. There are some applications where it's better than CA, I'm sure.
Nelson

I've heard of using CA. It's always scared me a little. How thin a part can you hold with it?

Not sure what the limitation would be on thin, Sheldon.
Guess I've used it on .030" brass, for example.