Official Luthiers Forum!

In wood the cutter geometry is going to matter a lot more than the material.

HSS doesn't last as long and it can flex more in use, but it is cheaper and can be given a keener edge. Carbide deflects less and lasts a lot longer (and the price difference is small if you shop in the right places) but it can't be sharpened to quite the same edge as HSS. Also, though it probably won't affect your selection much, it seems that all the new research ends up on carbide mills, not HSS, as that's what the big customers are using.

On wood in a non-production environment, though, you only really need to consider the cutter geometry.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

I have had great luck using standard carbide endmills. I just like to make sure they are brand new or have only been used in wood.

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Jeremy Vonk

I had a code error this week (my fault), I couldn't stop the bit from hitting a hardened steel dowel pin before it plowed right through it. Red-hot chips of steel were flying everywhere. I've got a couple of burn marks on my arms to remind me. Anyway, I was amazed at how little damage was done to the bit (Lee Valley brand brazed carbide). It was late in the day and it was the only bit I had for the job so I was able to lap the edge and get the job done. Replacement bits are on order.

Carbide is definitely tough stuff!

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Jeremy Vonk

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/ns-100.html
I ordered some of these to try in 1/4" and 1/2" radius.

Further on the toolpaths starting at the lowest point and working up. I re-programmed a neck carve yesterday with the toolpaths starting at the edges and working their way up. The finish was much better.