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| Metal Body single cone construction info http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10104&t=10956 |
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| Author: | dlucas [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:11 am ] |
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Hi, This is my first post but I have been lurking on all the resonator forums that I could find for a while now. I am planning to build a Metal body single cone resonator with a biscuit bridge. I have been searching the web, and forum archives for information and think that I have a pretty good foundation to begin this project. I have already received a blueprint from resophonic outfitters and purchased some cold rolled sheet steel. There are still a few details that I am hoping some of you might be able to help me with. First off the blueprint is for a 12 fret body, and I was hoping to build a 14 fret body, This isn't set in stone but I really wanted to try an keep this as close to an original National as possible, down to the smallest details. This might prove impossible since I don't have access to an original for reference. I was wondering if there might be other blueprints out there say for an acoustic guitar with a 14 fret body that would be very close to the body shape and size of an original National guitar? Also I want to try and build an arch into the back off the body. The beard blueprints show an arch that is about 3/8" at its highest point. Is that about right for an older National or we the arches higher on those and if so does any one know what the measurement would be from the flat part at the edge of the body to the highest part of the arch? The other thing that I haven't quite figured out is how to construct the soundwell, should it be made up of three pieces, a cylinder with a flat flange soldered to the top and bottom or should I try to form the flanges intergral with the cylinder all in one piece? It will probably be a while before I begin the actual construction, I was thinking I would try to order a cone from National and maybe a coverplate before I begin so that I will have those dimensions to work from. I would like to fabricate my own coverplate but will probably go ahead and purchase one to begin with. Any advice or tips that you think might help will be greatly appreciated. |
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| Author: | Mike Dotson [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:42 am ] |
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National Reso-Phonic is now offering 14 fret models so if there's a dealer in your area you might be able to check one out. They are pretty much a dead-on replica of the late '30s models, even having the deeply arched back, unlike their 12 fret single and tricones have had. The Johnson, Regal, etc. 14 fretters are pretty close dimensionally to the vintage ones and they might be easier to find. I make soundwells from 2 pieces. The bottom ring that the cone sits on and a double-flanged 'Z' shaped piece that I notch and bend around a form. One of the flanges goes 'out' and is soldered to the underside of the top, the other goes 'in' and the floor of the well is soldered to it. There are quite a few detailed discussions over in the MIMF archives including some really nice pictorials on building a tricone. Pretty much all the techniques are the same. |
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| Author: | dlucas [ Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:20 am ] |
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Thanks for the info Mike.Sorry it took me so long to get back. I have already went over all the archived discussions about this, and got some great info. the construction articles by yourself and others in the MIMF library are great and have been a tremendous help, your web site also was one of the things that I found early on in my search for information that inspired me to move ahead with this project.But the main thing holding me back from starting on my molds is that I want to build a 14 fret and so far haven't been able to get access to an actual National, so I am wondering if there are and bluprints, plans or templates of 14fret guitar bodies, maybe for sometype of acoustic guitar, either on this site or available for sale that would be very close to the body outline of a 14fret to the body National. Maybe someone that has access to one of this guitars can point me in the right direction. I will definately try your suggestion about finding a dealer in my area, But I doubt if they would be willing to let me make an outline the body, which is what I would really need to do.The other thing that I am hoping to find out is how high the arched part of the back is above the edge of the back on an original National guitar? Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated. |
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| Author: | Mike Dotson [ Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:58 am ] |
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I don't have a 14 fretter to get any measurements off either but they are remarkably close to a standard Martin 14 OOO. That of a Rogal, etc metal body will be your best bet. |
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| Author: | LouisianaGrey [ Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:01 am ] |
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I build wooden 14 fretters and I've got one of the Chinese metal 14 fretters in the workshop at the moment. I don't know how close they are to the old Nationals so it may not be any help but I can measure it if you want. If you want the exact shape of a National you could find a front-on photo on the Internet and blow it up on a photocopier or if you want to wait then send me a private message with your address and I'll have a go at tracing round it. |
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| Author: | dlucas [ Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:00 am ] |
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Thanks for the info guys. Mike your reply about the body size being close to a Martin OOO was echoed by Phil d over at Reso-Nation, I found a template for a OOO in the plans and templates section of the library here although it does not specify what type OOO it looks about right compared to the photo's I've been looking at. If I can bother Louisiana Grey and end up with an outline of the chinese 14 fretter that he has I think I should be able to come up with a suitable body outline between the two. I'm still going to try and get my hands on an original, even if they do'nt let me outline it, I think it would help to actually see and hold the real thing. Chris Paulick replied to my post over at MIMF that putting to much arch on the back could make for problems with assembling the back and sides. I don't know if I will be able to put any arch in the back at all, but I am going to at least try. But I think that now I might stick with the 3/8" arch shown on the Beard blue print. |
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