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| Lacquer On Chisel Blade. What To Do? http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=15056 |
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| Author: | JackBarton [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:18 pm ] |
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I'm looking at some new Sandvik chisels. It says that the blades have clear lacquer on them. I remember reading on one of the tool sites that one should strip any tools that may have this lacquer before using them. What do you guys think? I've heard how great Sandvik's are. Are they unusable when they're lacquer coated? What's the best way of stripping them? I could also go with a different set and avoid all this. It's just I've read how great the Sandvik's are. |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:37 pm ] |
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Jack, just sharpen it well and flatten the back, the lacquer will come off in the process. I don't have any sandvik chisels but I can't imagine that it's a thick coating. Shouldn't be a problem IMO |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:38 pm ] |
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Oh, and welcome to the forum! |
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| Author: | Louis Freilicher [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:39 pm ] |
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I had the same experience with a set of Two Cherries chisels. Just scrub them down with acetone to remove the lacquer before you sharpen them. Louis |
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| Author: | JackBarton [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 4:57 pm ] |
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It's good to know it's that simple. Thanks for the welcome Jim. This seems to be a great forum! |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:15 pm ] |
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What's wrong with lacquer on the blade? Once you've got the edge sharpened into a usable tool, the lacquer will help the rest of the blade remain pristeen. My Two Cherries are looking battle-worn now, but the lacquer on the blades has kept them (virtually) rust free for 25 years. I don't see it as a drawback. Steve |
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| Author: | Hesh [ Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:53 pm ] |
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Welcome to the OLF Jack!!
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Thu Dec 20, 2007 2:30 am ] |
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Welcome to the OLF, Jack. You have discovered the Forum that will give you all the answers, whether they agree with each other, now, that's something else. Diversity of opinion is the "Word", and it applies to nearly everything we discuss, except 3* unslotted bridge pins. 
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:24 am ] |
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Todd, do/did yours say "Made is West Germany"? And do/did they use the octagonal hornbeam Ulmia handles? Those are quite handsome. Steve |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:55 pm ] |
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Keepers for sure! Steve |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Fri Dec 21, 2007 6:39 am ] |
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[QUOTE=WaddyT] Welcome to the OLF, Jack. You have discovered the Forum that will give you all the answers, whether they agree with each other, now, that's something else. Diversity of opinion is the "Word", and it applies to nearly everything we discuss, except 3* unslotted bridge pins.
[/QUOTE] Welcome Jack...and personally I prefer 5 degree pins. 
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Fri Dec 21, 2007 8:48 am ] |
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Keep your ol' 5* pins. 
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| Author: | JackBarton [ Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:17 pm ] |
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Thanks very much for all the welcomes guys. Much appreciated. Jeez! I didn't know the Sandvik's would need that much work to get them going! Could you guys suggest a maker that's a little more ready to go "out of the box"? Sharpening is totally acceptable, but judging from Todd's description on what to do after buying the Sandvik's I feel like I could sooner make a set myself! 
Are Two Cherries any better? What about the set that LMI sells? |
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