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Bridge Slotting Question
http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14963		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  David R White [ Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:52 am ]
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I'm taking the advice of some of the forum veterans and doing my first bridge with unslotted pins, properly reammed holes and a slotted bridge. It seems that you want the strings to sit tightly in the bridge slots with no play, deep enough to fully but just barely cover the string which should just butt against the pin.

Is that the right idea? How anal do you have to get with the tightness of the fit - I could use nut files to get the perfect size or is that going overboard? What about the high e and b strings, do you bother slotting those or just cram them in"?

Author:  Hesh [ Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:38 pm ]
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David I think that you have the right idea.

I slot each string hole with a Stew-Mac saw that is much like a jig saw blade on a handle.  I slot and file until I can just insert the pin and it presses lightly into place.  I also carve a bit of a ramp toward the saddle as well.

For each string that I complete I leave the string and pin in place so it's easier to match the same pin height for the next string.

You want a snug fit for each pin.  Also, the pins are not always exactly uniform so using a tip from Mario I write a 1 - 6 on each pin so I can get the same pin in the hole that it was fitted for.  This is of course written on the small end of the pin so it does not show once the pin is installed.

I can't remember is I have to slot the B and high E but if I do it's to a very minor degree and only because of the windings at the ball end.

It's also important to take care that the slot and ramp if you do a ramp is centered in the pin hole.  This will impact the string spacing over the saddle.

It sounds to me like you are doing a great job of this.
Author:  Hesh [ Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:42 pm ]
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Oh - I clean up my slots with some appropriately shaped jewelers files.

I also hit the underside of the bridge plate with some sand paper just to knock off any splinters that may fall into the guitar.
Author:  David R White [ Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:44 pm ]
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Thanks Hesh. I have that Stew Mac file too. The kerf on it is about .04", which got me thinking if I use it the four high strings might be a little sloppy.
Author:  Hesh [ Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:53 pm ]
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Right - I agree but usually for the high strings just a quick, shallow swipe is good enough.  I would try to fit the pins first and only hit them with the saw if you can't seat the pin.

That little saw makes a very aggressive cut IMHO so it's one of those less is more and sneak up on it things where you cut, trial fit, cut again as required.

For the larger strings it also helps to come in from the sides, both sides and try to widen the slot in as much as some strings, with windings, are wider then the kerf of the saw.  I use a small round file for this too.

The noise that this saw makes makes me cringe........  It sounds like you are ripping the crap out of your prized guitar.......
Author:  Rick Turner [ Fri Dec 14, 2007 6:45 pm ]
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I think a SawzAll might do it right quickly...Just remember to pull the trigger before inserting the blade into the bridge pin hole.   Makes it more exciting...
Author:  David R White [ Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:56 am ]
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Keep in mind that to get the theoretical structural benefits of slotting, the slot depth at the bridge plate ends up being half the ball diameter (.065) plus half the diameter of the wrapped part of the string (.30 on the E)...otherwise the string ball may be jammed against the pin in much the same way as with an unslotted bridge.

Which means my statment about the string butting against the pin is wrong. You're saying to cut it slightly deeper. If that's the case it seems to make sense to err on the side of being a little deep so the pin is not contacting the ball.
Author:  grumpy [ Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:19 am ]
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I use a keyhole jig saw blade that I ground the width down to around .035", the width I want the high "E" string's slot to be. And I use this blade in my jig saw....

Makes quick work of slotting all 6. I follow up with files...

As for the size and depth, don't overthink it so much. Ream the pin holes to fit the pins perfectly, then slot until each string fits perfectly. I do this as part of the initial string up, one at a time. I'm not mearuring anything, no theory, no BS.. Just file until it goes in snug against the pin. With wood pins, you'll see the string's pattern against the pin itself, which will tell yo where to file further, and after you've done a few guitars, it'll be a breeze. One the first few, take your time, ad go slow.


Just do it....





.
Author:  Dave Anderson [ Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:41 am ]
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I thought about using my jigsaw for this but decided I had better practice on an old yardsale special first. I did it with a small jigsaw blade like the others.It's good to put a small mirror inside the guitar while you cut to see what your doing in there.
Author:  grumpy [ Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:53 am ]
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I think there might be some good tonal reasons to keep the string in contact with the pin

And that's my definition of a 'perfect fit'. Full contact with the pin.
Author:  MikeP [ Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:03 am ]
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[QUOTE=Rick Turner]I think a SawzAll might do it right quickly...Just remember to pull the trigger before inserting the blade into the bridge pin hole.   Makes it more exciting...[/QUOTE]

for maximum excitement make sure to have the orbital action cranked all the way up too!
 


Author:  David R White [ Sun Dec 16, 2007 1:37 am ]
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Thanks for the advice...I had forgotten about the thickness of the windings. A reamming I will go!
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