Anyone have any experience with this stuff? FWW did some testing and got strength ratings better than HHG.

Here's some interesting info:  http://woodworking.com/article_archive.cfm?section=5&art icle=1390

It is a gel at room temp but liquefies at a lower temp (80 degrees F) than HHG and supposedly stays liquid longer.

The problem with HHG for me is that if I heat my shop to 60 degrees in the winter, the humidity is usually perfect. Going up to 70 takes a lot more energy plus I'll have some serious humidifying to do. My experience is that HHG is not real fun to work with in a 60 degree shop.

Does anyone know exactly what the problems are with the additives in other liquid hide glues? If I get in touch with the makers of this stuff, what should I ask?

I got a sample from a friend and am going to do some creep tests side by side with HHG and pva. I will clamp a couple of pieces of spruce (and a couple spruce and rosewood) into my 15' radius form and monitor springback. I'll then start adding heat and humidity. Any other ideas for tests. I'm assuming based on FWW tests that strength is not an issue.

Thanks Hesh, I did read that before posting. I know the consensus on liquid hide glue is bad but this stuff appears to be different. Different additives and less of them. A search of the archives didn't turn up any direct experience with this brand so I thought I'd ask.

I did read the post by Alan Carruth about the additives in the Franklin brand breaking down the protiens but he didn't know what they were.

Michael, I did build a guitar with fish glue once but I got paranoid after seeing someone elses guitar come apart. It was an extreme circumstance but it happened right after I started using the glue so I stopped. Probably an over-reaction but it stuck with me...or not.

Tracy, can you give me any more info about the bridge coming off? Did wood come with it? Did the glue stick to the top and not the bridge. No extenuating circumstances? Fresh glue?

JJ, the sides, the linings, and to my complete surprise, even the bindings effect sound.

I put a series of test tops I on my test body a couple of years ago and was taking each of them to another builder for some more objective ears. I was leaving the tops unbound because it just seemed like a waste of time. He convinced me to bind one and listen for changes. I was amazed at the difference. Same guitar, just added binding and it had a much tighter sound with more high overtones. I'm going to play with it some more in January but the explanation that makes the most sense to me at this point is that the binding does produce more coupling between the sides to the top.

On still another topic, are some of you actually heating parts to extend the working time of HHG? How can you control the humidity that way? If I put a 100 watt light anywhere near a top laying on a workbench, the top starts to curl in a minute or two. If I put a hygrometer under the light, the humidity drops 5-10%. Doesn't make sense to me to be careful of humidity control only to drastically change it at the most critical time.

On the bind and tap tone front. That's a well know phenomena that many have noticed...

Sorry to waste your time with old news...

Yes I've heard a lot of people talk about the phenomena and so far as most people go, it's just that, an unexplained phenomena.

Have you ever actually listened to the difference it makes on a strung up guitar? What's the cause? How would you go about taking advantage of any effect or eliminating any disadvantage? What else can we learn based on that?