Todd, I took your suggestions. I was easily able to separate the bwb from the wood binding. I applied the bwb and mitred the end graft much easier than I would have before. I used a drop of CA every few inches - worked like a charm. Thanks
| Official Luthiers Forum! http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
|
| Tip needed on making binding http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14818 |
Page 1 of 2 |
| Author: | Ricardo [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've cut my own curly maple binding and bent them. Yesterday I glued on bwb (.010/.010/.010) using Weldon. Should I have glued first then bent? Wasn't sure the glue would stand the heat. |
|
| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I never attach my side purfling to my binding. I glue them in to the channel at the same time but a separate pieces. the reason I do this is because I miter all my purfling joints and find it easier to properly fit the miters pre-glue-up if the purfing is not attached to the binding |
|
| Author: | Dave Anderson [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use Titebond III also. It can stand the heat of your bender. |
|
| Author: | DP LaPlante [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I hand bend on a hot iron so the regular Titebond I is fine. The heating is only in sections and for a short period of time. It is far easier to glue the layers of veneer on the binding stock before you cut it into strips as well. |
|
| Author: | Kent Chasson [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
One problem with pre-gluing to flamed maple is that the curl can telegraph a little wiggle to the purflings. I used to use titebond II (before titebond III) and found out that it reacts with something in black acacia (maybe some other woods too?) and turns a lovely bright green. I've since been using regular titebond with no problems but I tape them together and wrap with foil to hold everything together. |
|
| Author: | FishtownMike [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I ask a similar question days ago about making and bending binding and i'm gonna try the tite bond III. Already bought some but havent had the time to try it yet. Mike |
|
| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It is a little trickier to get the miters right when the side lines are glued to the binding, but it saves enough time that I think it's worth it. "That which does not kill me makes me stronger" |
|
| Author: | Kent Chasson [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Todd, it's not during the gluing but the bending when it shows up although I suppose the glue could make a difference there too. It mostly shows up on the tighter bends. |
|
| Author: | Greg N [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use regular Titebond for most work, but for purflings or binding that will be bent later I use water resistant glue. Less failure that way. If I am thinking ahead I put the bindings in the bending press at the same time I do the sides. To make the bindings I glue up in large dimension and then resaw to just a little over size, then drum sand. You learn quickly to resaw with the veneer side up. The blade tends to tear the weaker veneers out if you have them down. Even if your wood is weak and breaks out at the bottom of the band saw cut it will be in an area that will be removed later and not right at a seam. Greg N |
|
| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The veneers will often buckle a little on the inside of a bend, which means on the outside at the waist or in a tight cutaway. When that happens I just press the veneer side against the flat top of my bending iron for a second or three, and it takes most of it out. I guess this is a 'flaw', eh? To me it's just a sign that you've got wood veneers, and not plastic. |
|
| Author: | Tom Armstrong [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Het Todd, Any chance you would post a picture of the jig you're using? thanks, Tom |
|
| Author: | Tom Armstrong [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey Todd, Any chance you would post a picture of the jig you're using? thanks, Tom |
|
| Author: | Tom Armstrong [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Still need that dang edit button! |
|
| Author: | FishtownMike [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 11:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm not sure if i like the idea of using CA on binding laminations. I just feel CA isnt time proven like other glues. 5 years from now the binding could start to peel off because of CA failure. Who knows what effect the heat of bending has on it. CA in my oppinion make week brittle joints not just on wood on every material be it metal, ceramic or plastics. |
|
| Author: | FishtownMike [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes I use it for repairs. Sometimes there is no other option depending on what you need to do. Just because martin and taylor use does not mean a thing. They are building factory guitars not custom handmade like most people on here. Just because they do something doesn't mean you need to mimic them. If they have a problem with one guitar out of a hundred that needs warranty work and you have one out of small amout you make compared to them it will hurt you more in the pocket then them. Yellow glue has been used in the furnuture trade for years so it does have a much more proven track record then CA in its use on woods. Instrument making is a much smaller then the furnuture industry. |
|
| Author: | FishtownMike [ Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Don't worry Todd. I didn't take it as anything. Mike |
|
| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think it is easier to adjust the side purfling miters if they are not attached to the bindings. However, if you cut your own wooden pruflings they may not like to bend sideways so much, and attaching them to the bindings may be the only way to make them behave. |
|
| Author: | Ricardo [ Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Todd, I took your suggestions. I was easily able to separate the bwb from the wood binding. I applied the bwb and mitred the end graft much easier than I would have before. I used a drop of CA every few inches - worked like a charm. Thanks
|
|
| Author: | Blanchard [ Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have found that using a minimum amount of moisture and heat when bending bindings greatly reduces the amount of "wiggle" in the purflings. The only problem is that it's a lot slower ! Also, I have been using CA to glue purflings to bindings prior to bending for 14 years... no problems yet. I glue the binding/purfling assembly to the guitar with Titebond. Mark |
|
| Author: | Tom Armstrong [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Great jig.....hope you dont mind if I copy it. regards, Tom Armstrong |
|
| Author: | Alexandru Marian [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Really newb question coming up :D which purfling are you guys adding prior to bending? The one at the bottom, towards the sides? Maybe the second, top purfling too? Or that one is added after the main binding is glued? |
|
| Author: | Greg N [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Subtle question. I was taught that Purfling is an "inlaid" piece (the detail you traditionally see on violins and such) and Binding is any trim that creates a corner (you can see it on two faces like the neck shown above). Does this sound correct? Was it correct at one time but blurring as time goes by? Greg N |
|
| Author: | Greg N [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I wish I could edit my previous post. I guess you could consider the BWB above a Purfling and the white material (Curly maple?) the binding. Or am I being too subtle? Greg N |
|
| Author: | Alexandru Marian [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks. So, you have to inlay the back (or top) purfling *after* the binding+side purfling are in place. |
|
| Page 1 of 2 | All times are UTC - 5 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|