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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:24 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:02 pm
Posts: 801
Location: United States
First name: Gene
Last Name: Zierdt
City: Sebastopol
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95472
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Following up on Wes' question on wall insulation, do most of you also have the insulation covered with wallboard? I've seen shops where the insulation was not covered, and also pictures where plywood was used in place of wallboard, to provide an easier surface for screwing things to the wall. I'm just finishing my shop- converted an old garden shed at a new house, and with the electrical just done, I'm ready for insulation and (I think) wall covering.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:35 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:50 am
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Location: Central Washington United States

Most local building codes require drywall (sheetrock) for fire code reasons.


 


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:40 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 11:13 am
Posts: 1398
Location: United States
I'd never do a wood shop without 5/8" "firestop" sheetrock.   Go over it with nailers or plywood or whatever for hanging tools and jigs, but for saftey's sake, rock it right. That would be doing it up right for any US building codes for a shop, too.   And while you're at it, use solid core doors as well. Just do it as though you were getting a building permit and the places is going to be inspected.   If you don't and you burn the place down, you can probably forget about collecting insurance.   Yeah, one more reason why guitars need to cost what they need to cost...

I'd never build or remodel a house without the stuff, either...that extra 1/8" of gypsum with the fiberglass strande in it can make the difference between a heap of ashes and a minor accident. Of course, I'm a guy who had a house burn down, so I may be a bit sensitive to these issues...


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 10:03 am
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Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
I used 3/8" OSB (Oriented Strand Board) over the insulation for the interior walls of my shop for the reason you stated, easier to screw things to it (I'm pretty sure I got the idea from Mario, Thks).

Here's a picture for those that don't know what OSB is or if it's called something else in the US or elsewhere.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:54 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Canada
If it is a single room and is unconnected to anything else then you probably don't need sheet rock to meet codes. At least not in Canada. The drywall (what it is called in these parts) is used to keep the fire from spreading so it islotes the fire to the room it started. The paper on the drywall burns quite nicely. Having said this, plywood costs a fair bit more than drywall. For my small shop (330 sq ft) I drywalled everywhere except where the benches are and I wanted to hang lots of stuff. That is covered in 1/2 inch plywood. If you are really about fire you can still use plywood but source out intumesent paint, not sure I got the spelling right but this stuff off gases when in heat and displaces oxygen from the surface giving you a 2hour fire rating.

Shane

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:44 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:25 am
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Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Sheetrock. I used plain old half inch. 5/8 inch was used in rich folks homes, but I never knew why, I thought it hung and finished nicer.

Firerock may be a bit different. We never plan on a fire, but it could happen, or does happen.

My Dad used OSB in a trucking office. It was always dark in that place. I like my white sheetrock ceilings because it reflects the light so well. The walls are off white painted, but again reflect light well.

Most anyone can finish sheetrock good enough for a shop. Bed and tape, then two fill passes. Piece of cake. Corners, fill only half at a time and let dry. Then do the opposing side of the corner joints. bed and tape with a six inch knife, float panel joints with a 10 or 12.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:46 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Russellville, Arkansas
If I used osb, I'd paint it light.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:53 pm 
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Koa
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Location: United States
One hour fire rated sheetrock is 5/8", and yes, it does look nicer too as it lays flatter.   But the real thing is that it has fiberglass strands in it which holds it together much better under adverse conditions.

OSB...you like those formaldehyde fumes?   Seal that stuff really well.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Florida
I converted my concrete block garage into my workshop. I glued 1/2" styrofoam sheets to the wall then glued and screwed 12" OSB on top of that for the walls. Keeps me warm in the winter and cool in the summer with just a 110v window ac/heater. The ceiling is 8" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters and then 1/2" OSB for the ceiling.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:56 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Florida

EDIT:


that is 1/2" OSB, not 12". Also, my garage is a free standing building and is not attached to the house.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:02 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:55 am
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Location: United States

I just hung about 25 sheets of 10 and 12 foot 5/8 firestop in my finishing shop a month ago and let me tell you, that stuff is


H E A V Y ! The 26 foot steel ceiling liner was even heavier!!


It looks so pretty all white and shiney now though, worth the work!



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:31 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
Posts: 1667
drywall here, also, but OSB under it if you want to hang stuff. I forgot(d'oh!) on most walls, and dang if i don't miss it....

In also suffered a fire, in 2002, and drywall is absolutely amazing! The place really, really burned badly, and in the same area with the 9' hole right through the floor, when we peeled back the drywall, the paint hadn't even bubbled behind it(we'd drywalled over the existing wall, which included 4 feet of Dounglas Fir from the late 19-teens). And that was just 1/2" drywall! The 5/8" fire code stuff that Rick talks about has to be even more amazing...

The biggest thing I can add to this discussion is to suggest you run all your wiring outside of the walls, in armored cabling. Not only will it allow an uninterrupted vapor barrier and insulation, but it's both safer(you can see the wiring), and more convenient(you can add/move it at will). My last 2 shops have been wired this way, and it's the only way to go.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:32 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:55 am
Posts: 1505
Location: Lorette, Manitoba, Canada
I've got drywall over 1.5" foam and R12 fiberglass in the stud framing.  I ran out of time when moving in.  I got as far as taping and mudding, then all the stuff arrived.  Then I had to move in and work.  My walls still aren't sanded or painted (10 years so far).  I bugs me.  Nobody else seems to care, though.  When you start, finish now or you never will.

Next year, I swear, I'm going to get those wall painted!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:40 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
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Oh, and keep the outlets at least 4 feet off the floor. That way, you can park sheet goods anywhere, and not lose your outlets, and if you add a bench, again, you've not lost your outlets... Keep in mind that any good shop will evolve constantly. 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:42 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
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For paint, the lady who was selling me the paint added some blue toner to the standard white, to make a "super white". It really helps light the place, and makes the long hours easier, as it's a more natural white. Ask them to do the same for you, you won't regret it!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:43 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
Posts: 1667
Serge's Kingdom for a f&^$ng edit button....


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