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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:09 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:39 am
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Location: United States
Hi all,

I would like my first build to have a simple, single shell rosette ring. What is
the easiest (and hopefully cheapest) way to do this?

Also, how thick do you all sand your cedar tops too?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:34 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:36 pm
Posts: 69
Location: lockport ,il

my first rosette was a single ring abalone. lots of suppliers sell this curved and is a 5'' cirlcle and  1/16wide. so i bought a 1/16'' bit for my lam trimmer and made a circle a little smaller than 5'' and work perfect. the abalone popped right in.


 im not an expert or even a ametuer at guitar building but everyone will tell you to go by the stiffness of the top for thicknessing. but im sure something around .100-.125'' will be fine.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:48 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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All tops have to be viewed as individuals for their own stiffness or lack of stiffness.  But if you don't have a feel for this yet I would take cedar closer to .130 - .135.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:55 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

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Location: United States
Thanks everyone,

Has asnyone ever used this circle cutting jig from StewMac?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_trim/
Tools_and_supplies_for_binding:_Binding_channel_cutting/1/
Soundhole_Rosette_Routing_Jig/Details.html#details

Just saw it, and it looks promising to me.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:18 pm 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
you can make your own circle cutter quite easily, take a look Sylvan Wells site for some good instructions.

As for the Cedar top. Hesh's words are true, it really depends on the top itself but seeing as this is your first, I'd really suggest keeping it on the thicker side (it's certainly easier to take it off than to put it back) and I'd keep it in the 0.130"-0.140" to be on the safe side.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:23 pm 
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Mahogany
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Location: United States
Thanks, Rod.

LMI thickness sands to .115", so these numbers make me think maybe I
would ask them to keep it a little thicker. . . I don't have a thickness
sander, so I would sort of be doing this blind.

Thanks as well for the circle cutter link.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:29 pm 
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No problem Peter.

I would think LMI's standard thickness is .115" for spruce. Ask them what their standard thickness for Cedar is.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 2:04 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Yep Rod is right and I will bet LMI does Cedar thicker too.

There are some tutorials here if you search the archives for simple rosettes and elaborate ones too.  I use the Stew-Mac circle cutter with the Stew-Mac base.  Others like to make their own like Rod said and use Laminate trimmers.

Fly cutters can be used too just be very careful to be sure all the set screws are tight, wear eye protection, and if using a table top drill press bolt it down, the vibration of fly cutters can cause a bench top drill press to walk right off your bench.......



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:14 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

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Location: United States
Thanks, Hesh.

If you're using the Stew-Mac, I figure that you'd recommend it. Do you use
the Stew Mac bits with it?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:15 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

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Location: United States
Thanks, Hesh.

If you're using the Stew-Mac, I figure that you'd recommend it. Do you use
the Stew Mac dremel bits with it?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:22 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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[QUOTE=PDeWitt]Thanks, Hesh.



If you're using the Stew-Mac, I figure that you'd recommend it. Do you use

the Stew Mac dremel bits with it?[/QUOTE]

I sure do the spiral down cut bits and they work great.  I take small passes and multiple passes never hogging off much at once and it works out great.  Remember too if you are planning to use CA to glue the rosette in seal the end grain on the top with shellac first to avoid staining.  I am in the minority here who uses good old Titebond and this lets me fit the rosette slightly less tight and use the moisture in the Titebond to expand the woods to close an gaps.

I also pass the top with the new rosette through the thickness sander 20 minutes after gluing with Titebond and the still tacky glue mixes with the saw dust while leveling the rosette and automatically fills any and all gaps.  It works great every time for me.

Let us know if we can help buddy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:24 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 13386
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
City: Ann Arbor
State: Michigan
Country: United States
Status: Professional
Oh - another tip is to after each pass with the circle cutter remove it from the center spindle and vac the dust away.  the base will sit on the dust and raise the circle cutter throwing off your adjustments as you gradually lower the bit to say .060 for the rosette channel.





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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:34 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:39 am
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Location: United States
Sweet!

Thanks so much, Hesh.


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