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Truss Rod questions http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14252 |
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Author: | Eric Mathre [ Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:10 am ] |
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I'm preparing to route the groove for the truss rod in my current build. I have a couple of questions. First, I'm building from the OLF SJ plans. I've purchased a two-way "Martin style" truss rod made by Gotoh from LMI. http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=T russ+Rods%2FNeck+Parts&NameProdHeader=Truss+Rod+%2D+Martin%9 9+Style+Truss+Rod It seems that most folks here orient their truss rods so that the adjustment end is accessed through the soundhole. I've read comments by Cumpiano (and others) that reversing the direction and allowing for adjustment via the headstock introduces some weakness to the headstock area (I'm using a scarf-joint Sapele neck, not a laminated approach). But I've also seen plenty of guitars made with the truss rod adjustment in the headstock. I'm leaning towards doing it this way also. Frankly its because I don't see how to pre-drill the access holes in the neck block and upper transverse brace with sufficient accuracy. I saw one builder with on-line construction photos who took a router to the assembled body and routed out a groove right through the top of the assembled body (and into the neck block, brace and graft) to provide access. That looked extreme to my inexperienced eye. Here's my question: If I want to orient the truss rod for headstock access, where should the other end of the truss rod end? It looks like it will need to extend past the 14th-fret body join line about 1/2 inch into the tenon. Is this OK? Should I have purchased a shorter truss rod (I already wish I purchased a *lighter* one)? Can anyone describe how they locate the access hole when doing it the other way around (soundhole access)? Do you pre-drill the neck block before assembling the body? Thanks, Eric |
Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:46 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Eric- Good points, and interesting questions. I've been building with the adjustment through the soundhole, and I certainly like the appearance of the headstock without truss rod cover and screws. As you point out, the truss rod adjuster does complicate things in the neck block area, and if you plan to use a straight allen key for adjustment, you have to think about holes through the transverse brace, etc as well. I've been drilling the hole in the neck block after body assembly, but the rest of the access path for the key is done before the top goes on. Generally I tend to err on the 'too much clearance' end of the spectrum- I don't want things binding in there. BTW, a ball-end allen key can help if the alignment turns out to be a bit 'off'. However, I think I'm going to switch to headstock adjustment in my next few projects. For me, it is easier to adjust the rod from the headstock end (especially with strings on the guitar), and I'd like to have a bit more freedom to plan the bracing without thinking about how to get the allen key in there. It's a decision between esthetics and practicality for me. There are some alternatives to traditional trussrod covers which help with the 'ugly' factor on the headstock. There was a good article by R.M. Mottola in American Lutherie #86 (GAL magazine) about headstocks and trussrods-worth a look. I wouldn't be too concerned with having the truss rod ending in the tenon. The important thing is to think out the cross-section at the headstock end. I've only used a Gotoh rod once, and I 'ended' the routed slot with just enough clearance space to get an allen key in (you can chop off part of the short arm of the 'L'). It's not necessary to 'run the slot through' the headstock, which you see sometimes. A volute can help to beef up the neck a bit in that area as well. Cheers John |
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