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Split topped guitars.
http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13606		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Steve Saville [ Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:04 am ]
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I'm interested in making a split-topped guitar, like Harry Fleishman and others have done - Perhaps half cedar/half sitka.
Before starting I was hoping to get some opinions and advice from those that have done this.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 7:21 am ]
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The coolest one I have ever seen had Sapele/Maple back and sides and Redwood/Eruro Spruce top with ebony bindings. I think I still have a jpg of it somewhere I will look but the Spruce part of the top was against the Sapele side against the Maple back half. The Redwood top half was against the Maple side against the Sapele back all bound in a simple Ebony binding. Cool effect yet not gaudy
Author:  peterm [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:11 am ]
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I thing Cedar/Spruce may be a bit too much of a contrast.... maybe redwood/spruce? or Port orford cedar with cedar?
Author:  Pete Licis [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:35 am ]
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[QUOTE=verhoevenc] The only issue here that I can see is that you're NEVER going to get an "optimal" guitar top. I say this because cedar will need a different thickness from sitka [/QUOTE]

You may get a better match for thickness/stiffness if you pair Cedar with Engelmann, especially if you hand pick the woods specifically for this purpose.
Author:  SteveCourtright [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:42 am ]
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If I understand what you are trying to do - I think Howard Klepper has hands-on experience doing this. Maybe he will weigh in here or you can try contacting him directly.
Author:  Howard Klepper [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:59 am ]
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I believe it adds some tonal complexity. I've used WRC with Euro spruce. I am not partial to Sitka.
Author:  Peter J [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:26 am ]
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Steve,

Here is a link to Andrea Tacchi's Spruce/Cedar split-top classical and an interesting article about it and it's construction.

      Tacchi "Cochlea Thucea" Spruce/Cedar Split-top
Author:  Steve Saville [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:32 am ]
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Peter,
I couldn't get the link to work or find it with a search. Help please! I'm really interested.
Author:  Steve Saville [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:39 am ]
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[QUOTE=Howard Klepper] I believe it adds some tonal complexity. I've used WRC with Euro spruce. I am not partial to Sitka.[/QUOTE]
Howard,
Do you have to use dove tails to do this?   
Is tonal complexity a good thing?
I'm guessing that it adds some qualities from both wood types and blends them.
Have ever built this way for a commission?

I met you at NAMM this year at the hotel. It was a real pleasure.
Author:  WaddyThomson [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:49 am ]
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Here is a link that will work.

http://www.guitarsint.com/detail.cfm/id/280/img/img3_lowres

That is very interesting.  Nice price too.
Author:  McCollum [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:32 pm ]
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Harry's dovetail is an inlay. He takes a piece of the matching wood and inlays it into the top so it looks like each half is dovetailed. Even Harry isn't crazy enough to try that.

Lance

mccollumguitars.com
Author:  Colin S [ Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:40 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Howard Klepper] I believe it adds some tonal complexity. I've used WRC with Euro spruce. I am not partial to Sitka.[/QUOTE]

Howard was already one of the half dozen world guitar builders for whom I had the most respect. The above statement reinforces that view.

I believe Kathy Matsushita has also built a split top guitar, check her website or maybe she'll chime in here.

Colin
Author:  Kevin Gallagher [ Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:22 pm ]
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    I've built with a few tops of half Cedar and Half Sitka during some
prototype efforts with good results. The voicing process is fun and takes on
a whole new meaning from what is typical.

   Those dovetails, as Lance said, are inlaid after the halves are joined so
they're not functional, but aesthetic in their application.

   Harry has built some of the coolest looking instruments ever using his
unlikely wood combinations. I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any questions
you have.

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars
Author:  Glen H [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 12:01 am ]
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Howard's dovetails are real dovetails.
Author:  jonhfry [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 1:18 am ]
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so are they real dove tails? or real inlays?


or is that just to remain the 10,000 dollar mystery?
Author:  Dave Rickard [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:37 am ]
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They could be real dove tails that are inlayed
Author:  Dave White [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:06 am ]
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[QUOTE=Dave Rickard] They could be real dove tails that are inlayed[/QUOTE]

No - you can't see any feathers
Author:  Howard Klepper [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:25 am ]
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Author:  Steve Saville [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:32 am ]
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Porter Cable dove tail fixture and router with dove tail bit?

[QUOTE=Howard Klepper]
[/QUOTE]
Author:  Brock Poling [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:33 am ]
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just out of curiosity Howard, are you cutting those on a dovetail jig?

Author:  Steve Walden [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:41 am ]
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Howard - Would you use cross grain reinforcement strip as on a back or would the braces be enough to stabilize the joint of the top?


Thanks!


Sorry if this seems like a hijack.
Author:  Howard Klepper [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:43 am ]
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I have no secrets (well, . . .). PC 690, Freud dovetail bit, Grizzly aluminum dovetail template. No commercial fixture or jig; I mount the template to a maple board and clamp the guitar panels up with waste boards to help stop the tails from fracturing and fraying. The depth of cut is critical, since it controls the fit of the dovetails. Since the template isn't long enough, it has to be moved and kept in register. That part is tricky, but I just do it by eye. All you really need is too much free time and a willingness to waste hours of work and some wood.
Author:  Howard Klepper [ Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:47 am ]
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All the dovetails are backed up. Cross grain strip on both top and back. Laminated double sides. In this application, a dovetail is weaker than a butt joint.
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