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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:51 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:07 am
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Location: Ulster Park, New York
First name: Bill
Last Name: Sterling
City: Ulster Park
State: New York
Zip/Postal Code: 12487
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
 I am new to building so I don't know what the guitar building community thinks of knots. Something to be avoided or character marks? I just got to nice walnut boards 15"x 1 1/4"x 6' with curl in it. One of the boards has a couple pin knots in the curly area. Can I use them if they are tight?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:25 pm
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If they are solid, then yes. If you're just learning, you don't need the really expensive / perfect woods. If you're going to put your money some place important, choose a good top. Even then, you don't need a perfect looking top, just a good stiff piece with good tap tone.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:59 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 12:43 pm
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Location: United States
It depends on the knots. If they are small, secure, and you like the way that they look, I see no reason to reject the wood.

Al


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:19 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:07 am
Posts: 161
Location: Ulster Park, New York
First name: Bill
Last Name: Sterling
City: Ulster Park
State: New York
Zip/Postal Code: 12487
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
 I am excited I am going up to spend a week with Dave Nichols at Custom Pearl inlay at the end of September. This forum is great on getting question answer fast. As Don said they wood I have will be fine for the stage I am at. Also give me some experience resawing. I will let people know how I do with the tungston impregnated blades I got from R&D in Canada. I am building a special feather wheel system to hold the wood against the fence better. If it works out I will post a picture. Got the parts from www.Stockroomsupply.com they have alot of interesting things on their site.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:27 pm 
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I have used nothing but the industrial blades from R&D on my 3/4 hp 14 inch Delta - they are on my way to skiing , about 25 minutes away. I first bought their blades at a wood show up here, and they are nothing but fantastic. I have resawn a LOT of wood with these things, and at 20 bucks each, its a bargain. If they arent working for you, its definitely the saw setup - I can attest to that.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:59 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:07 am
Posts: 161
Location: Ulster Park, New York
First name: Bill
Last Name: Sterling
City: Ulster Park
State: New York
Zip/Postal Code: 12487
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
[QUOTE=TonyKarol] I have used nothing but the industrial blades from R&D on my 3/4 hp 14 inch Delta - they are on my way to skiing , about 25 minutes away. I first bought their blades at a wood show up here, and they are nothing but fantastic. I have resawn a LOT of wood with these things, and at 20 bucks each, its a bargain. If they arent working for you, its definitely the saw setup - I can attest to that.
[/QUOTE] Tony- spent a long time on the phone with Bob and the guy knows alot about bandsaws and blades. He imports the same blade stock that Suffolk machinery uses for there timberwolf blades. I just got the two blades I ordered today and shipping to the states was fair but the price on the blades was about half was Lee Valley wants for the same blades. Good people worth checking out www.tufftooth.com

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:15 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 10:21 pm
Posts: 1055
Location: Australia
I recently had to deal with some knots in some opportunity grade IRW sides I got from Allied Lutherie. I flooded the knots with cyano and managed to bend the sides without any problems.


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