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How do you remove the saddle?
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Author:  Blain [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:44 pm ]
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After my first attempt at saddle slotting, the standard 1/8" saddle was too loose in the slot.

I ordered some wider saddles and widened the slot a bit more as well.

I had a nice snug fit with the saddle in the bridge, but now I can't get it out.

Are there any tips on removing the saddle without damaging it or the bridge?

I could try and finish shaping it in the bridge, but it would be much easier if I could get it out.

Author:  Blain [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:45 pm ]
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I was thinking about putting it in the oven, but wasn't sure which would expand first, the bone saddle or the wood?
Author:  old man [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:06 pm ]
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Vice grips?

Ron
Author:  JJ Donohue [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:12 pm ]
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What Ron said...but rubber-padded jaws.
Author:  Don A [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:14 pm ]
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You can probably use vice grips to work it out of the slot. Use some scraps to cover the bridge at points of contact to prevent marring the wood.
Author:  grumpy [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:39 pm ]
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Needle nose pliers.

Lay them down, lengthwise, close them on the saddle, and use them to pry a corner up. Works every time...
Author:  WaddyThomson [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:43 pm ]
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Pry against something besides the bridge though. 
Author:  Blain [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:59 pm ]
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Thanks everyone. I got it.

Now do y'all think I made the saddle fit too tight that it needs to be removed with vice grips or should it be able to be removed by hand?
Author:  old man [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:02 pm ]
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Mine are snug but removable by hand.

Ron
Author:  old man [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:19 pm ]
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Todd, I just noticed that we joined the forum on the same day.   Probably doesn't make you proud, but it does me.

Ron
Author:  Chas Freeborn [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 4:25 pm ]
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these work well for the removal task
http://irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?
prodId=IrwinProd100326
Author:  old man [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:39 am ]
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Author:  Dave Anderson [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:06 am ]
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I made this to rock the saddle out . I just ground down the sharp edge . It works very well.


Author:  David Collins [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:45 am ]
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I did the same thing to a set of end nippers as Dave posted above, though
with a mini set. And it's hard to tell from the photo, but I think my flat-
ground edge is a bit shallower than those. It is probably one of the top three
tools that I use on a daily basis. For pulling saddles and bridge pins it's what
I have automatically grabbed for the past 10 years, and would feel rather
lost without it.
Author:  crazymanmichael [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:38 am ]
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david beat me to it. i was turned on to this adaptation of end cutters many years ago. iirc it was don teeter who recommended it.

as to the tightness of the saddle in the slot, it should be tight enough that you need a tool to remove it, i.e., a good interference fit. one test i was taught many years ago was that it should be tight enough to pick up the weight of the body without coming out. it it is too loose it will cant, levertin te bridge and thowing the intonation off.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Sep 04, 2007 12:38 am ]
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Too tight runs the risk of splitting the bridge. I too am a snug but hand removal kind of guy. In Engineering lingo slip fit where the saddle and slot are the same size. Press fit or interference fit is where the saddle is a few thousandths larger than the slot and causes compression of the wood fiber to seat the saddle. This is what you have right now.
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