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Luthier Tool Company binding jig
http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13404		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  James Orr [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:50 am ]
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Hi everyone

I know it's been discussed, and I found a few discussions in the archive. I
wanted to see if there are any new thoughts to add.

http://www.luthiertool.com/binding_cutter_base_PC.html

The Luthier Tool Co. binding jig looks like the best non-dremel option for
me me because of the ability to put it away in a small box. I get the basic
theory behind it. The rollers index the cutter in line with the side of the
guitar. It has a plastic wedge on top that matches the radius of the top or
back. Are there multiple wedges for varius radiuses? My upper bouts will
not be radiused. Will this be an issue?

Hesh said you have to hold it perfectly or else things will go bad fast.
What can go bad?

How do you set width and depth of cut?

Are there less expensive options out there for something similar?

Going back in time, would you buy it again?
Author:  James Orr [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:52 am ]
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Oh, and are there any used ones out there someone wouldn't mind
selling?
Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:17 pm ]
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James-
I've got a home-made version of this jig.
As Hesh mentioned, you do have to make sure that the guides stay in contact with the guitar side.
Also, you want the router to remain vertical and not 'tip forward' (or lean back) in the direction of travel. This can be tricky if you are a bit stressed and are using more pressure than really necessary when holding the router.

I haven't yet decided whether to build something different/better to replace my jigs like this. I did use a different style jig during a guitar course, and managed to screw up with that one, so probably familiarity/practice is the key (as Hesh pointed out).

Cheers

John
Author:  letseatpaste [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 2:16 pm ]
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I have it and use it and it works fine, but it's a little nerve wracking because if it tips in towards the body, you'll get a divot. I'm getting used to it, though, so the last time was a bit easier since I know how to handle it better.

I got it because I don't have space for a big jig. Some sort of holder would be ideal, but I just use 2 6" bar clamps to hold the body in place on the bench, usually in the dish. I rout one half, and then reclamp the other side and rout the other half.

My other issue with it is that the bit is surrounded on all sides, and there's nowhere for the chips to go. It's especially bad if you're working on a resinous wood where the saw dust clumps together.

It is extremely well constructed. I have the slotted headstock jig from Luthier Tool, I've only used it once but it worked perfectly for me.
Author:  Arnt Rian [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:14 pm ]
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Here's a link to an old thread with a show and tell of my home made version of this jig.

My binding jig
Author:  MaxBishop [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:21 pm ]
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Hi James,

I have had mine for over a year and have used it on five guitars (classical size). As others have mentioned, you have to insure that you don't tip it inward and get a divot. This is best done by practising via dry runs to get the hang of pressing the rollers with the lower hand to the sides. I have found it to be an excellent, precision tool.

Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan
Author:  jcjenkins3 [ Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:27 pm ]
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James,
I have built, bought, and used about everything out there for cutting
binding. All of it worked. However, this cuts more easily and precisely than
anything else I have ever used. Any binding job can go south quickly if the
operator is not very careful about what they are doing.
For my money, this is the best thing i have found for cutting binding
channels.
Just my 2 cents worth.

Chris
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:13 am ]
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I have used mine now for two years Like others have said you need to keep both bearing against the side. but that is true of all hand routing systems be it one bearing or two. The two bearing system insures a better square cut in relationship to the sides. Just jeep the rollers against the sides and the flat areas are no problem.
Author:  luthier24 [ Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:27 am ]
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Having used the Dremel/StewMac binding tool for my first six guitars and finding it extremely nerve-racking, I searched for a better solution. After much research, especially on the OLF, I purchased the Luthier Tool binding jig and have used it on four guitars and to remove a top. This tool is wonderful at cutting binding and purfling channels. Just follow the instructions carefully about tipping and moving from the waist outward and you should have no problems.
Author:  Jimmy Caldwell [ Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:36 am ]
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I just got a new prototype of a version of this tool that Bishop Cochran made. Anyone who has one of Bishop's tools knows the quality of his work and this one's very well thought out. It's similar in design to this tool, but it has a D-handle like a router incorporated into the base to help you keep the bearings in contact with the sides. I made a tapered donut out of UHMW and it surrounds the bit (this part is similar in appearance to the GuitarJigs setup). The bit extends below the donut so there's no restriction on the wood chips.

I've been using the GuitarJigs setup for several years and have been very pleased with it's results with a couple of caveats. It doesn't allow the use of a spiral downcut bit, so there is more cleanup required and the cut is blind (you can't see the results until you're done as the cut is made on the opposite side of the guitar from where you are). It too relies on maintaining contact with the sides on the rollers to prevent gouging, although after you've done a few, this is not a problem. You develop a feel for this over time.

I haven't used it yet as I just bought last week, but I have high hopes for this tool. I just lucked into this as Todd Taggert had two versions available (Ervin Somogyi bought the other one). It's just a prototype now, but if it works out, I'm sure Allied would make it available. I've got some pics that I'll post this evening and as soon as I get a chance to give a trial run, I'll posts the results.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:11 am ]
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I would love to see that! pictures please
Author:  James Orr [ Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:57 am ]
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This is great---thanks, guys. It seems like the big issue is simply making
sure you keep it flush to the side, and I think doing some runs on cheap
lumber would help me get the feel for it quick enough.

How do you do depth and width of cut adjustments?
Author:  letseatpaste [ Tue Aug 28, 2007 3:05 am ]
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Depth adjustment is by whatever depth adjustment you have on your trimmer. I use a PC 7310, and it's sort of clunky but I can adjust it well enough. The width is done with the little knurled knob you can see in Hesh's photos.
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