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buffing with drill
http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13117
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Author:  stan thomison [ Tue Aug 07, 2007 6:37 am ]
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I currently don't have access to a buffer and until set up new shop need to use probably a drill setup or get one of the hand buffers for buffing.

Have a small finish repair to do (case caused scuffing where sides hit in case) I know can get most out using 2000 wet, but want or need to do a buff also probably. I have also a new build that want to buff and will use same method. Never had to use this type of setup before and sure will be glad to get setup in shop again.

Note on Mcquiar's, differing numbers I guess which is how fine the compound is. What are the best numbers for the setups noted and for the type of work this is.

Nitro on the repair and a car type finish on the build. Can't think of what it is at this time. Works great for a finish though and can buff in a day or so of it being applied.

Author:  WaddyThomson [ Tue Aug 07, 2007 6:49 am ]
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According to my understanding, the car type finishes are acrylic lacquers and enamels.  You can buff out and compound the lacquers, but the enamels are not designed for it.  You can break down the surface of an enamel, and it will never buff up like the original finish.  You can however clear coat over it with an acrylic lacquer or reactive (two part) clear coat.  What is on a car from the factory is usually an enamel with a clear coat.  I know there are probably exceptions to this.

Author:  rgirdis [ Tue Aug 07, 2007 7:17 am ]
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 You want to use Meguier's no. 4, 5, and 7 -in that order to rub out from 2000 grit. Get the Meguire's pads too, one for each number.


No. 4 is an abrasive polish, so don't overdo it. Work lightly around the edges (bindings) to avoid rub throughs.


Rob


Author:  Kim [ Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:33 am ]
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Hello Rob,

Welcome to the OLF

Cheers

Kim

Author:  Bruce Dickey [ Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:43 am ]
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Hey Rob and Stan, Welcome back to both of you.

Sounds like you got good advice Stan.

Some folks use a drill press for buffing if you have one handy.

Author:  TonyKarol [ Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:43 am ]
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Sometimes when doing a show I will bring a long a cordless drill, with an 8 inch buff mounted on a bolt - easy enough to do. A little glans wach compound on it and it saves a lot of time hand buffing out the abrasions left by the tire kickers trying out the guitar. Couldnt be simpler to do .... then a little Meguiars 7, 10 or 17 and you are golden.

Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:10 am ]
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[QUOTE=stan thomison]
Note on Mcquiar's, differing numbers I guess which is how fine the compound is. What are the best numbers for the setups noted and for the type of work this is.
QUOTE]

Be aware that the numbers do not run consecutively.#5 is a scratch and oxidizer remover compound Medium grit #7 is a glazing compound. very fine # 9 is a swirl remover and is medium grit So you have to look at the grit chart on the bottle. not the number.

Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:11 am ]
Post subject: 

[QUOTE=stan thomison]
Note on Mcquiar's, differing numbers I guess which is how fine the compound is. What are the best numbers for the setups noted and for the type of work this is.
QUOTE]

Be aware that the numbers do not run consecutively.#5 is a scratch and oxidizer remover compound Medium grit #7 is a glazing compound. very fine # 9 is a swirl remover and is medium fine grit So you have to look at the grit chart on the bottle. not the number.

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