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Question about Maple
http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13043		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Blain [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 1:53 am ]
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There's a seller on ebay that is selling Curly Maple (both hard and soft) that I was thinking about trying to resaw to get a set of back and sides. (Or in nothing else, to use for laminates for the neck).

A couple of questions:

1.) Which is best to use, Hard or soft?
2.) What thickness should I look for in order to get two sides and the two halves for the back? (the thickness vary from 7/8 to close to an inch)
3.) Is there anything else that you can add?

Thank you in advance for your input.
Author:  Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:55 am ]
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Hi Blain, here's a thought or two for ya:

1) Whichever has the better figure. Actually, you'll get slightly different sounds from hard or soft, but as has been said here many times, most of what you hear is coming from the top. I just used a 3/4" strip of soft maple in a neck laminate, and I've got no worries about strength issues. (Probably saved a few grams to boot not using the "hard" stuff.)

2) Unless you have a top-of-the-line band saw, and not a little skill using it, I'd suggest getting the thickest board you can buy. My guess is that you'd be taking a chance if you got the 7/8" board. Well, unless you got two, say, one for backs and one for sides.

3) You bet: I love maple!

Steve
Author:  Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:57 am ]
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One more thought:

Don't let anyone tell you it is an inferior tonewood, destined only to produce thin, tinny guitars.
It is in fact wonderful stuff.

SK
Author:  Blain [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:17 am ]
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Thanks for all of your input Steve.

This helps a lot.

I love the look of Maple so I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

One more question....

Have you ever or would you suggest using Maple for the Top as well?
Author:  A Peebels [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:48 am ]
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Speaking in generalities, the soft maple will usually have more contrast in the figure. Use the hard maple for electric guitar and bass necks, use either the hard maple or the soft maple for everything else.

Al
Author:  drfuzz [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:01 am ]
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Blain,
    The last guitar I finished was made with quilted maple back/sides and englemann spruce top. I was very pleased with the sound - a good fingerpicker guitar, it seemed to me, very even from string to string, with a full sound. Unfortunately, it lives in Utah now or I would invite you to come by and check it out.

Author:  Pwoolson [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:14 am ]
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[QUOTE=A Peebels] Speaking in generalities, the soft maple will usually have more contrast in the figure. Use the hard maple for electric guitar and bass necks, use either the hard maple or the soft maple for everything else.

Al[/QUOTE]
Al, why would electric necks be any different than acoustic? My only thought is that you might want a little more weight to balance out the weight of the body. Please explain.
Author:  Blain [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:25 am ]
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Thanks everyone.

I went ahead and purchased two boards that are Super Curly Maple (soft).

The dimensions are:
41.75 X 10.25 X .875+
and
36.75 X 11 X .875+

Most Jumbo sides are sold around 5" wide if I'm not mistaken, so I should be able to saw in half (width wise) and get an extra set of sides per cut or use for neck laminates.

This will be my first attempt at resawing so if nothing else it will be a good learning experience for me.

Can anyone reccomend a cheap wood that would be good to practice on before cutting into the Maple? (possibly similar to what I should expect when cutting the Maple)
Author:  Pwoolson [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:29 am ]
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Maybe just go down to the lumber yard and pick up some soft maple. The non-flamed stuff will be much cheaper and still give you a good idea of what to feel when you cut it.
Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:35 am ]
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[QUOTE=blain1976]
Can anyone reccomend a cheap wood that would be good to practice on before cutting into the Maple? (possibly similar to what I should expect when cutting the Maple)
[/QUOTE]
Maple (plain) is pretty cheap as hardwoods go, but may not be as common in your area as it is up here in Canada.
Beech is another wood that has the same 'feel', to me.
Alternatively, just use any hardwood you have in the scrap (or firewood) pile for practice.
Don't 'practice' so much that you get the blade dull, though!
Cheers
John
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:37 am ]
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Poplar if you can find it dry enough. most found at the Borg is way too wet to compare
Author:  Blain [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 6:24 am ]
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Thanks.

I'll see what I can find down here.

My Dad may even have some stuff that's been in his shed for years that he might be willing to let me use.
Author:  Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 1:49 pm ]
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Blain, as to using maple for your top, I would not hesitate to say don't do it. You need a good spruce top for this guitar. Even soft maple will be too dense to make a good soundboard.

Why not post some pix of the wood when it's delivered?

Steve
Author:  Blain [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:20 pm ]
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Thanks Steve and Hesh.

Got it. I'll plan to use spruce for the top, when I start this build.

Steve, I've got the pictures from the ad so far, but I'll take more when they arrive and post those as well.

Let's see how these come out....


Author:  Rod True [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:53 pm ]
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Blain, nice wood. That is really going to pop under finish. Soft maple will certainly be a fine choice. Of course try and use the quarter sawn sections for the back and sides rather than the flat sawn. Save the flat sawn sections for the neck laminations.

Use care when bending, this is considered by many builders to be one of the hardest woods to bend.

Have you thought of using western red cedar for the top. That will give you some nice warm tone and the look is really nice too.

Can't wait till I can get my maple cedar guitar done (shameless plug for cedar curly maple combination)



Author:  Blain [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:08 pm ]
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Rod, thanks for the tips. Not sure if I'm ready to bend this yet now that I hear some consider it the toughest wood to bend... But I suppose this would be a good set to practice on if I can resaw these boards...

Nice guitar photos. I do like the cedar maple combination. Hmmm. Choices, choices....


Author:  KenH [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:39 pm ]
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Rod, is that ebony binding or something else that is stained black?


I *LOVE* the contrasting colors of the maple, WRC and what ever the black binding is !  WOOT WOOT

Author:  Rod True [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:39 pm ]
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Ya Ken, it's ebony. Headstock veneer, FB and bridge will match it.

Blain, what do you have for a bender? I don't want to scare you off from using the maple. Remember that curly maple has been used for hundreds of years on all stringed instruments. You just have to be patient with it and you'll be fine. Supporting the wood on the backside of the bend will really help with bending.
Author:  Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:35 pm ]
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Blain, that's some gorgeous wood you got there.
As for bending the stuff, I've found it to be one of the easiest species. Hmmmm. Of course, it can fracture right in a curl, but with care that can be avoided.
When I think of difficulty, I think of a wood that--no matter what you do--resists you. Maple sort of gives up and goes limp when hot. You have to be careful when this happens, and keep it moving if you are working on a hot pipe. (Here's a fine time to insert: YMMV)

When I built my first maple guitar, I paired it with a dark spruce top. Looked much like Rod's guitar. Caught a lot of flak from fellow luthiers for the choice. Times have changed, thankfully.
However, you might want to consider a nice white Lutz top from Shane. That would compliment the maple nicely, and any opinionated folks would applaud your choice!

That said, Rod, your guitar is looking great!

Steve

Author:  Blain [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 1:47 am ]
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Rod,

I have the Fox style bender from John Hall.
I have one heat blanket (maybe I should get another one?)

Well, I guess I have to start somewhere right? So far I've only bent a pair of sides of Walnut so I can't say I'm confident going into it, but I can't bend Walnut for the rest of my life. These boards were only about $30.00 each shipped, so at least it won't be too expensive if I snap a side.

Thanks all, I'll post more pictures of the wood when it arrives.

I talked to my Dad last night about getting some practice wood to resaw so I'm going to swing by there later this week to see what he has.
Author:  Billy T [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 4:20 am ]
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That's looking real good Rod! Real Nice!
Author:  Rod True [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:23 am ]
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[QUOTE=Hesh1956] Rod your latest Geetar is looking fantastic my friend!!! I really like the high contract of the ebony and the purfing too. Nice work and great looking shavings too. [/QUOTE]

I really wish I could say I was working on it. That picture was taken back in December, last time I worked on it.

Thanks Billy.

Blain, sorry for the hijack on your thread, just wanted to show you a different look with the cedar.
Author:  A Peebels [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:27 pm ]
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Paul, Sorry it took so long to get back. I only use hard maple for electric guitars necks because of the longer unsupported length (18-20 frets for electric, and 12-14 frets for an acoustic) Soft maple may work as well, but I'm just a little afraid of it.

Al
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