Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Wed Dec 04, 2024 2:38 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 17 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 8:19 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 3:45 pm
Posts: 206
Location: United States

What kind of resaw fence do you use? I have a 16 Minimax with a 3 1/2 metal fence. I have been thinking of making one like the one in one of the bandsaw books I have, maybe 7" high made of of MDF. I tried resawing some engleman and stopped after two slices, wasn't going so well. I guess I need to work on the learning curve with more scrap wood. Resawing was going well with wood that I hadn't paid for!!!


Thanks


Peter



Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 8:35 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
Posts: 9191
Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
You get what you pay for, but one of the things I have read, and seen demonstrated, is that the alignment of the fence and the blade from top of cut to bottom of cut is critical.  One way to test is to make a shallow test cut, then, with the saw off, of course, flip the piece over, so the cut is now at the back side of the blade, but with the same side against the fence, and see if the alignment matches the test cut.  If the blade won't fit in the test slot, the alignment is off, and adjustments need to be made.

You probably already know this, but just thought I'd chime in, because I thought it was a neat trick.


_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 8:44 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:03 am
Posts: 456
Location: Toronto, Canada
I user the Kreg fence with the micro adjuster available from Lee Valley. It has set screw adjustments for the vertical, a normal screw adjustment for blade drift and a sweet micro adjuster to set the depth of cut. I have extended it vertically by bolting a piece of MDF of the appropriate height.

_________________
David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:20 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2007 9:48 am
Posts: 108
Location: United States
I have something similar to Todds except it attaches to the regular fence.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:34 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 3:15 pm
Posts: 2302
Location: Florida
I have the same thing using a couple of pieces of plywood. One side is 8" tall and the other side is 4" tall. Just flip it over depending on what size you need to cut. It was easy to make and I used a machinist's square to make sure it was all truely square. Used scrap blocks of 1x4 epoxied in place to brace the angle.

_________________
Reguards,

Ken H


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 1:12 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 11:09 am
Posts: 783
Location: United States
First name: Kirby
State: Wa. ... Devoted (Inspired?) hack
Does anybody use a point type?

_________________
"It's a Tone Faerie thing"
"Da goal is to sharpen ur wit as well as ye Sgian Dubh"

"Sippin Loch Dhu @Black lake" ,Kirby O...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:40 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:25 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Netherlands
I just made myself something that's essentially identical to Todd's fence, just with MDF (flatter than my ply) and a few blocks of scrap basswood holding everthing perfectly square (screw and glue). Minor modification: I've got a pair of strong rare earth magnets screwed into the bottom (each with a pull of about 65 lbs). Light tapping to adjust, and a single clamp to make double-sure nothing moves, and the whole thing works a treat!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:45 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:02 am
Posts: 2351
Location: Canada
First name: Bob
Last Name: Garrish
City: Toronto
State: Ontario
Country: Canada
Status: Professional
I'm using the 4" fence that came on my Laguna 16HD and have gotten great accuracy using it. If you make sure it's relatively close to parallel, then the guides are the bigger problem after that.

I do clamp the fence down at the far side with a C clamp, rather than just using the built-in clamp on my side, to ensure it stays straight under pressure. If you've got rigidity then you can adjust until you get consistent precision, but if you don't have a rigid setup then no amount of adjustment will give you precise results.

_________________
Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:47 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:02 am
Posts: 2351
Location: Canada
First name: Bob
Last Name: Garrish
City: Toronto
State: Ontario
Country: Canada
Status: Professional
I should note that I'm only resawing hardwoods on my saw right now up to about 8-9". If the wood is flexible, then you might need to support further up to ensure the pressure of the blade isn't bowing it.

_________________
Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:01 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 3:45 pm
Posts: 206
Location: United States

Just finished a fence like Hodges described. I placed two T nuts from underneath with 1/4-20 screws that I can adjust from the top to give it some fine adjustment. It looks good, but I'll see tomorrow when I go back to resawing a billet.


Thanks


Peter



Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:05 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 11:13 am
Posts: 1398
Location: United States
I've got a Baker 20" 20 hp horizontal resaw with a conveyor belt feed, and we use carrier boards to run wood up to a maximum of about 14" wide through the thing.   There is a hydraulic motor on the powered hold down, too, which keeps the wood well under control.   The accuracy of the machine suffers if we push the limits on width, but at guitar back sizes, we can hold plus or minus about 5 thousandths across the board and in repeatable thickness.   We've recently switched from the Timberwolf ASS blades over to 1 1/4 vari-pitch Laguna carbide which takes out a bit more kerf, but leaves the wood smoother, so the net loss to saw and sander is about the same or better than with the super thin kerf Timberwolf blades.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:33 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:25 pm
Posts: 7202
Location: United States
Ya gotta love those Laguna blades...is that the new Resaw King Rick? Have they switched to carbide finally?
I use the older Resaw King's for stuff and get fantastic results, except with really tough woods like Brazilian or Bubinga. I dulled one really fast in some Brazilian.

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:44 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:02 am
Posts: 2351
Location: Canada
First name: Bob
Last Name: Garrish
City: Toronto
State: Ontario
Country: Canada
Status: Professional
[QUOTE=Don Williams] Ya gotta love those Laguna blades...is that the new Resaw King Rick? Have they switched to carbide finally?
I use the older Resaw King's for stuff and get fantastic results, except with really tough woods like Brazilian or Bubinga. I dulled one really fast in some Brazilian.[/QUOTE]

I second that, I just toasted one in a log of Braz a couple weeks back. Did get an awesome yield from it, though, so worth it even though the blade's going to cost some bucks to resharpen.

_________________
Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 5:35 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 3:05 pm
Posts: 503
Location: Portland, Oregon
I use a flat fence, with a small bit of relief cut into the outfeed. I have an adjustment screw that allows me to make small adjustments if needed to square the fence and blade. I use a straight piece of metal that I clip to my blade to check the blade against the fence to ensure they align. I made the fence so that it is square to the table, and added an adjustable reinforcement to ensure the guide remains square under pressure. The fence is clamped at both ends to ensure it does not slip. I use a machinist square to confirm the blade is square to the table. I pay close attension to how I feed. Keeping a steady, straight feed with light steady pressure against the fence. If I am squaring a billet I use a table that I made that holds the billet at both ends(to keep it steady). The table tracks on the miter slot. Since I use it to create sqaure edges on split bolts it is important that the wood is secured firmly at both ends as it is suspended for the most part. I get very good results using this method.

I use a few different types of blades. For very low loss I will use woodslicers(although Mattia mentioned to me I should use Bladerunners). I use timberwolf for common cutting with smaller blades. I use Lennox Woodmaster for higher volume cutting(where a slight increase in kerf loss is not an issue), this is my work horse.

One other little mod I made that worked very well was to swap out my bearings. I replaced the two small bearings and metal spacer on my stock guides. With one wider(guides my blades up to 1-1/4") with a small bearing behind that(never gets touched because I don't use blades that wide). The wider bearing is more stable, smoother, with less heat generated. The wider bearings ran $20 a pop(regular smaller bearings ran $5 each), but it was worth the money.

Peace,Rich



Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 17 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com