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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:20 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
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Location: United States
Hello All,

I’ve been planning my next build, and wondering about the several possibilities in choices of wood.
I got this pre-braced top and back set at the swap meet, and I thought why not finish her up.
I thought at first, the obvious choice for the sides should be the same species as the back, which is
Pau Ferro. Lately though, I’ve been thinking of maybe trying something different. For instance, if
I use a mahogany neck, would mahogany sides be complementary? Also, for something really
different, I’ve got a set of bubinga sides, that would be quite the contrast. I suppose that if I go
that route, it would require a very carefully selected appointment scheme.

I would very much like to hear from anyone who has an opinion about this!

The following pics are the set in question, maybe it’ll help.

Robert










Thanks for Looking!

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:33 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I agree with Hesh here.  If I had a pre-braced top and back like you have, I would consider it a perfect candidate for experimenting.  I would either go with mahogany to match the neck, or go with something totally different to make it look very unique.  Either a very light or very dark side wood to make it contrast.  I am thinking something like Maple or Walnut.  Heck, I might even consider Bloodwood, Padauk or Camatillo to add some color.  I would definately play with it to make something very different! 


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:42 pm 
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Well, I'm always leaning toward mahogany as a neck wood regardless of the back and side woods. I think it would look fine with that b&s set.

You will start to realize that the aesthetics of what look good are purely subjective, and have little to do with how good an instrument is. Although, as it turns out, many folks tend to like the same things aesthetically.

More importantly, you want to just build something, and pay close attention to what you're doing as far as the sound and the setup/playability.
Remember, the design "3F's" standard is "Form Follows Function". Concentrate on making a good guitar, and worry less about how pretty it is at first.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:43 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 4:43 am
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I say be crazy and different.


I have been tooling up and putting pieces ogether for about 6 months. I am going to get some pics up one day, but so far I have not had time when at home. I have 3 sets, all rose wood with 3 tops inching towards assembly. I have come to the art of side bending, and have bent my first set but made some really bone head mistakes. Suffice to say my first set of sides glued to the neck and tail block will probably be a wall trophy to remind me of past mistakes.


This has left me wodering what to do with the beutiful back piece that is still lokking good and ready to glue to some ribs.


I decided the night before last that since I do have a potential 4 inch resaw capacity (only a 10" bandsaw) and a good sander now I am going to the lumber warehouse next week and buying something crazy to make more sides out of, something not rosewood-ish.


This build will be for me, but it is an experiment. So many guitars look the same, I want to learn to do something that will stand out..... 


I say go for the Bubinga,


Besides a build is kinda like a baby, noone is going to call it ugly (even if it is) and all are beautiful in their own way. 



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:20 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

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Location: United States
Hi All,

Thanks for the advise!

Perhaps I should’ve said that I have found two sources for Pau Ferro, and Rich here at the OLF
has generously offered to slice me up a set after he gets his new shop set up. However, I’ve been
thinking it may be very difficult to get a close match, even with using the same species of wood.
So, that’s what got me thinking, why not try something different then?

Hesh, I do like the idea of using mahogany. But, the more I thought about it, the more I wanted
to try something new! So, here’s another pic showing mahogany, & bubinga against the pau ferro.

David, that’s exactly what I was thinking, why not experiment a little!

Don, of course your right! Aesthetics are purely subjective, and the standard “Form Follows Function”
is exactly what I should be concerned with! I just felt that maybe I should get a few thoughts on
what I had been thinking of doing. I don’t want to get to crazy about a color theme. Though I do
think this is a perfect opportunity for experimentation, I want to make this guitar available for a
perspective client.

Jon, thank you for your comments as well, and I am leaning towards the bubinga. There is another
consideration here as well. I am trying to use what I already have in stock.

Robert




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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Robert...From the above pic, I would go with the Mahogany rather than Bubinga. To my eye it compliments the Pau Ferro better.

One other issue to consider. Many builders feel that the braced plates should be glued to the rims as soon as possible after bracing. The idea is that the plates can lose their dome if left unconstrained. Then again, I've seen shop pictures where other builders have a significant number of braced tops and backs made up in advance and just lying around. Having actually experienced a back losing its dome, I now glue them to the sides as soon possible after the bracing is completed. As a rule, I make up the sides and have it all ready for gluing as soon as the plates are braced and voiced.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:35 am 
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Koa
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I'm with JJ on this. I'd get that rim done pronto! I think the mahogany looks the best, but I like the look of matching sides and backs. My vote is to find a set of Pau Ferro "close enough" and go with that. Since you are buying the sides seperately, you might want to consider buying 4 sides just in case you break one. If you don't have much experience bending cut-aways, you might like the extra insurance. Not only that, but you can use an extra side for making neck laminations or headplates and rosettes. Best of luck, and keep us "Posted"
Tracy

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:27 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
Posts: 499
Location: United States
Hello All, and thank you for your help and advise!

Hesh, Don Williams, JJ Donohue, and Tracy, you guys have been around for awhile, and have the
experience that deserves respect on an issue like this. So, after careful consideration,
I have decided go with the suggestion to use mahogany.

No offense to David and Jon, I may do something wild and crazy down the road, who knows!

Also, it has been mentioned, the possibility of losing the dome. Here are some pics that show the
condition of the back & top.

I would welcome more comments on the following pics as well.

Thanks again,

Robert












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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:45 pm 
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Wow. Someone has humidity control issues...

What does your shop humidity measure out at?

Looks to me you're going to have to pull off all those braces, get the wood flat again, and re-brace after you get a rim made to put them on.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:18 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
Posts: 499
Location: United States
Hi Don,

Right now, my humidity meter is showing 85%. It’s been around 75% for some time now.

Do you really think something as drastic as you suggest is necessary?

If that’s the case, I may just set this set aside for another day.
I’ve got a lot of other wood I can use that has not been braced,
and is very flat and striaght!

Robert

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:24 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

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Location: United States
Hesh,

Alas!, I have no humidifier yet!

Also, I did not brace this top and back set, it came to me already completely braced, and,
it actually has been like this for some time.

Robert

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:32 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
Posts: 499
Location: United States
Hesh,

We must be writing at the same time.

Good advise!

I will go to Lowes today! and get a HUMIDIFIER!

Actually, I’ve been shopping, in hopes to find one that has a self draining function. Haven’t
found one yet, but, it seems I’d better just go get one, and be happy with what ever I can find!

So, Hi Ho, Hi ho, it’s off to Lowes I go!

Robert

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:39 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
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Location: United States
Hesh, you really think they'll come back to their original shape after a couple of days 40%-45% humidity?

That‘ll be just fantastic!

Thanks my friend!

Robert

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:42 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
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Location: United States
What! you think you're the only one who just woke up!

Of course, your're right!

I'm going to buy a DE-HUMIDIFIER!

Thanks again my friend!

Robert

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:52 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

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Location: United States
Hesh, That's a great idea!

I'll do my best to set it up!

BTW, I just sent you a pm.

Gotta go for now.

Thanks again!

Robert

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:29 am 
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First name: Waddy
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Robert, don't forget.  Dehumidifiers are also heaters.  The one I have keeps the humidity well, but it probably adds 5 - 8 degrees to the shop temp.  I'm thinking of buying a portable AC unit.  The "Little Lady" has put the nix on a window unit, as it would be street-visible.  Not really sure what to do, but if it's 90* outside, you can bet it's 90* inside the shop too, and it is well insulated.

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