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A bowl turning friend uses this stuff and it looks nice. Looks like it might be good for necks.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-a ... od-finish/

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Polymerized linseed oil and bees wax. It is equivalent to a hardwax oil. This one is derssed up in old fashioned labelling. Other guises like Evo brand or Rubio monocoat are marketed as a “new age” finish. Either way, I am a big fan of hardwax oils (although I have not tried this particular brand). They are easy to apply by hand and give a good looking and durable satin finish with only a few thin coats. However, they will not produce a built-up gloss finish if that is what you are after.

I've used it quite a bit on furniture & general woodworking projects - it's pretty much my go-to around the shop.
I haven't used it on a neck yet.
It's definitely satin, not going to be glossy. So if the body is glossy, I think it might look odd where the neck heel (in satin) met the body.
It brings out grain & color nicely; has a bit of a yellow/amber tone to it.

Do they dry properly directly on oily wood, or over filler, or shellac, or??

I think Osmo is something similar I've tested but not used on a guitar for a variety of concerns.

There is so much testing required to apply a new finish to something with so much of an investment already in it.

The one problem with wax finishes for me is once it's applied, I don't think anything else will stick to it even if it doesn't work. Even if appears to stick it would be a worry for me down the road.

I must have tested a dozen finishes and probably spent near a grand in the process and I'm still back to shellac and TruOil as I just don't have room or want to build a spray booth.

But I'm always curious to read the results of others on alternative finishes. Thanks!

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
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I wouldn't put it on top of any other finish.

I think I've used shellac over it in some instance.

It's intended to be the only finish on the surface it's used on, the way I understand it.

I use Osmo on necks. I love it. It’s also on the neck of my daily driver and haven’t seen any issues.

Brian, what were your concerns?


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Brad

For necks no real concerns except drying over oily headplates or bindings and over fillers.

I guess same for bodies. I love the idea of 1 - 2 coats and done!

And long term, what is compatible over it if it doesn't work for you visually.

Example - On one of my 2 recent padauk guitars, I was going for a more natural look, not completely pore filled and some grain showing. Looked fine partially pore filled but with the top coats the pores ended up looking like flaws instead of grain and I hated it. If it was wax based top coat I may have been screwed with residual wax in the pores.

I have 2-3 qts of OSMO. Seems like the can said 1 or 2 coats so I don't think I could have just added coats till my liking.

I did some test coupons with the OSMO and liked it on Hog, but rarely in guitars are they one wood.

edit/update - I read the can directions and it implies it can be used over other finishes if sanded back or stripped so I'm assuming it can go over pore filler and a wash coat of shellac over oily wood.

I'll have to do more testing with it. It looks like you may not be able to apply another finish over it so that's still there but something you can live with. Pretty sure I tried some directly over rosewood and if I remember right there was a drying issue. I'm not giving up on it.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Thanks, Brian. That’s helpful.

I’m using the satin Osmo Poly-X, I know they have different mixtures. I put it on over bare wood, 2-3 coats. Hopefully no issues over oily woods. I’ve put it on walnut, khaya, ziricote, and rosewood head plates. Will report back if I see anything weird.

Sorry to derail the thread, Terry.





Brad


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