Official Luthiers Forum!

I've only completed two guitars but the third is nearly complete.
I was wondering what preferences you guys have for installing the bridge either before or after buffing?
Both the previous ones were buffed first.

_________________
Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

I buff first then clear the footprint and attach the bridge. I think it could work either way, but you might mask off the bridge to keep anything from transferring to your buffs. It might also be difficult to get right into the corner around the perimeter of the bridge.

That being said, I’m seeing some folks on instagram finishing the bridge in place which to me is a big no-no. Paging Dr. Hesh….


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

After…

Agree. Buffing compound gets stuck in the bridge edge.




Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk

After.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

After. Mask off footprint before starting finishing

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Either way but I would always make sure to do some buffing at the very end when it's all together.

Bridges look great buffed out too just use a separate wheel. We keep a separate wheel for bridges and such and call it the "dark wheel."

Note: If you buff before gluing on the bridge make sure the bridge patch is well taped off so as to not contaminate the gluing surface.

Is it next to the nut buffer? This stuff just writes itself, you know?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

May be time to get a small jewelry buffer for nuts and bridges. I hate swapping buffer wheels

_________________
Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Yes! I bought two of those cheap harbor freight buffers and replaced the buffs with a slight upgrade from Amazon. I use one for nuts and saddles and one for frets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

Yeah nut buffers are very cool and useful in the repair world and our's get used every day. I even have one in my home shop they are so useful.

When I first started building I found it calming to go through all the micro-mesh pads and really shine up a saddle or nut. The nut buffer reduces that 20 minute job to less than one minute.

I have an 8" buffing wheel on my bench grinder that I use just for nuts, saddles, bridges and miscellaneous. Incredible shine that almost approaches the gloss my Newfoundland dog can achieve on his overly endowed self.

Very cool Darrel what's his name? I'm jealous.....

Ha! His full name is Titan Bears Snug Harbor. "Snug" for short. Best dog ever but he isn't a good guy to take along if you want to swim. It's great for him, but he tries to drag me back in if I'm swimming with him. The kids don't like that he stands between them and the water.

Snug looks fantastic and what a great family member too!