I get the same thing from Indian Rosewood. I’ve come to terms with the fact that sandpaper strips are consumables. I buy in bulk and replace when an eraser won’t clean it.

I get the same thing from Indian Rosewood. I’ve come to terms with the fact that sandpaper strips are consumables. I buy in bulk and replace when an eraser won’t clean it.

Yes they are consumables and not terribly expensive but they are an absolute PIA to put them on

I know this won't help and I am saying it for informational purposes only, but ever since I switched from my drum sander to a wide belt sander the belts last a very long time even with resinous woods-
Obviously more surface area contributes- also the oscillating motion of the belt as well...

This is using 120# on Supermax 19-38, running at a little over 1/2 speed.

I’ve been experimenting with the Alumina Zerconia (Blue) paper from Klingspor. Gotta say, I’m pleased so far. It lasts about twice as long as the standard aluminum oxide we are used to. When running rosewood I’m taking no more than an 1/8 turn per pass, running the stock through on the bias when possible and using an eraser to clean the paper after each pass. This is using 120# on Supermax 19-38, running at a little over 1/2 speed. They say that the blue paper runs cooler which makes a big difference.

M

I sure do miss the TimeSaver 36” wide belt that used to occupy my lunch break.

Michel, are you saying the Grizzly machine is basically junk? I’m see a lot of Grizzly machines in build videos…

Rosewoods are bad but so are some others.

I think the benefit of wide belt is that the belt goes from flat to being drawn over 2 small cylinders every cycle and the resins tend to come loose in the flex process.

I've had some success with my drum sander by increasing feed speed and reducing depth of cut to try and keep things cooler.

I tried 60 grit but I found errant grooves in my work that were extremely hard to spot until finish was applied, one high piece of abrasive? Don't know but I won't go with 60 again. Tried about every color and composition of belts too and I seem to prefer cheap belts thrown away more.

I do know I spend an inordinate amount of time cleaning sandpaper rolls with everything from erasers to wire brushes and putty knives mixed with cussing for effect.

I cut most all my plates and sides from billets and realized there was a way to cut the sanding in half. The last batch of backs and sides I did I ran both sides of the billet through the planer then sawed 2 slices and repeat. You can put the pieces back in bookmarked order and you are starting with one side close to perfect. With only one side to sand and if you do it right the planed faces can be the show faces.

I know it requires a planer but that is more affordable than a wide belt.

I can't say too much good about a planer with the Byrd Shelix carbide head for an ultra smooth finish, low noise and superb results even on figured wood - nothing compares.

I want to experiment more with power planing thin wood to thickness. In an earlier attempt I had a EIR back blow up in the planer and quit. I want to try double stick tape to hold them to a sled next time I need some. I'd like to reduce the drum sanding to the bare minimum.

I suppose, even if you have to make a drum strip a single guitar consumable, $10 a pop is reasonable but I hate the waste too. And the time in changing belts.

In my experience, yes. We have owned a lot of grizzly tools over the years. They were kind of ok once you spent a bunch of time messing with them. After my dad died in 07 I got rid of all of it. I mostly gave it away to the guys on the crew - it was basically valueless. After that we switched to older Powermatic and similar. I no longer have the large shop space I once did so it all got sold off - at least it was worth something.

Best, M