Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi all,

I have a LMII endpin that I'm installing as the last step in my first ever acoustic build. It appears the the taper on it is just a hair over 1 degree. It measures .33W"x.3"Wx.83"L, which appears to come to 1.03 degrees. I'm having a hard time sourcing a proper reamer for a nice tight fit. While I did a test hole with my 3 degree reamer and it seams tight, I can tell by the pencil marks that I put on the endpin shaft that there is far from full contact between the tail block and endpin shaft. Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading!

I'm not sure I totally understand what you are saying, but.... Since my geometry is a bit rusty, I just hold the reamer over the end pin (before it's in the hole) and eyeball it. It is best to get a reamer/pin that match. But if you have already reamed the end pin hole out and it has a little movement, You can improve the fit by putting small amounts of tape on it. Binding tape would be the best unless you don't have the room for it (it is fairly thick).

As your builds begin to approach museum grade, you will need to make sure the tapers match and you don't ream too deeply. I shoot for the shoulder on the pin ending up about 1/32" or so proud of the wood. Good luck

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Thanks for the response. I am specifically looking for anyone that has used an LMII endpin, and what reamer they have used for a tight fit. I have a test hole reamed, but obviously want the real one to be as well fitting as possible. There is and endpin hole on the guitar, but I have not reamed to it's final diameter yet.

Have you contacted LMI to see what they recommend?

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Use a standard 5 degree bridge pin reamer in scrap and see how it fits. I fit Martin end pins all day long with just the 5 degree reamer.

It is supposed to be removable as well so too tight a fit is not desirable.

Welcome to the OLF too.

I did, they were surprised to hear that it wasn't a 5 degree taper and recommended sanding the shaft of the endpin to fit.

The taper does not have to be an exact match and for removal purposes is better if it isn't. I use 5 degrees because it usually is not what the end pin is and that's what I want. I repair Martins and others for a living and fit end pins near daily.

An end pin that fits too well and is too tight can split the end block....

Just to add to what Hesh said, aremovable and pin is very helpful to have use any time the guitar in its case and might be bumped or dropped. If the end pin is temporary removed, it isn’t projecting out and ready to transmit the shock of a bump or drop to the guitar.

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Tim Allen
"Never hurry, never rest."

I built all 6 of my guitar projects using 'mushroom' screwed-in metal endpins. Firm attach, no fiddling with tapered holes. Somebody invented metal fasteners hundreds of years ago. Taylor uses them on everything.

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Peter Havriluk