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| question about ebonizing http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=54069 |
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| Author: | SnowManSnow [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | question about ebonizing |
ebonizing... ebonization ? ha I want to ebonize my next hog neck on build 22! I have a grasp on how to create the ebonization fluid (doesn't that sound cool), but in thinking through it I'm a little confused on HOW to apply it. At what point in the finishing process do I ebonize the wood? If it raises the grain, I'll need to sand back. Won't that create a light area? Thanks. b |
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| Author: | jfmckenna [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 8:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
Rais the grain with water first then sand back. Should probably repeat. Then stain it. You can simply use a cloth or one of those foam brushes to apply the stain, err I mean ebonization fluid. |
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| Author: | SnowManSnow [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 8:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
jfmckenna wrote: Rais the grain with water first then sand back. Should probably repeat. Then stain it. You can simply use a cloth or one of those foam brushes to apply the stain, err I mean ebonization fluid. so just raise the grain to sand as usual, then apply the ebonization fluid... and continue the process of finishing  I think this is going to look great with my wenge back and sides! |
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| Author: | Michaeldc [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 9:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
Yup, Warm water to raise the grain, lightly sand back, apply very strong black tea (adds tannins. 4 bags in 1 cup of boiling water), then apply the iron sauce. I apply with a foam brush (doesn’t take much. Dip a corner and go) letting each coat dry before moving to the next. I like to do two passes. Let dry for 24hrs then apply two coats of Silvertip with a foam brush, then sand level, adding more as needed. I do not sand between the coats of Silvertip. I think it says there is no need to sand between coats as long as you redcoat within 72hrs. Read the label. It’s really easy and it looks cool! M |
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| Author: | SnowManSnow [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 11:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
Michaeldc wrote: Yup, Warm water to raise the grain, lightly sand back, apply very strong black tea (adds tannins. 4 bags in 1 cup of boiling water), then apply the iron sauce. I apply with a foam brush (doesn’t take much. Dip a corner and go) letting each coat dry before moving to the next. I like to do two passes. Let dry for 24hrs then apply two coats of Silvertip with a foam brush, then sand level, adding more as needed. I do not sand between the coats of Silvertip. I think it says there is no need to sand between coats as long as you redcoat within 72hrs. Read the label. It’s really easy and it looks cool! M The tea is a new one didn’t know that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | Michaeldc [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 12:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
SnowManSnow wrote: Michaeldc wrote: Yup, Warm water to raise the grain, lightly sand back, apply very strong black tea (adds tannins. 4 bags in 1 cup of boiling water), then apply the iron sauce. I apply with a foam brush (doesn’t take much. Dip a corner and go) letting each coat dry before moving to the next. I like to do two passes. Let dry for 24hrs then apply two coats of Silvertip with a foam brush, then sand level, adding more as needed. I do not sand between the coats of Silvertip. I think it says there is no need to sand between coats as long as you redcoat within 72hrs. Read the label. It’s really easy and it looks cool! M The tea is a new one didn’t know that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Handy for ebonizing woods with low natural tannin content. I use the tea on everything cuz I want the color to be as dark as possible. M |
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| Author: | bftobin [ Tue Mar 30, 2021 2:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
Unless you want to DIY, dye for leather will do a great job. Fiebings is what a lot of people (and pro shops) use to make ebony bridges and fingerboards jet-black. Brent |
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| Author: | mcgr40 [ Wed Mar 31, 2021 10:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
Black Tea! I have to try this. maybe it will help this white persimmon wood. Many thanks |
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| Author: | Mark Mc [ Thu Apr 01, 2021 6:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: question about ebonizing |
Ebonizing looks great, if the timber has sufficient tannin content to react well. The black tea trick adds a bit more tannin and might improve the result. But some timbers just won’t react with the iron. Then the black leather dye is your best bet. As always, test on scrap first. In this one the neck timber is australian blackwood, the same as the body. It ebonizes really well. |
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