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Does anyone know a supplier that sells wood purfling taller than 1/4”? I’m looking for BW and BWB that are a maple and dyed maple layup like SM sells but taller. I may have to make it myself. What I need is 5/16”.

Brad


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To make up extra tall purflings I laminate veneer sheets in my bending form ( e.g.- rosewood, maple, rosewood) and then slice off whatever width I need on the table saw. It can be a little squirrelly to do the first few times you do it, so some might prefer using the bandsaw. I laminate with West epoxy, but hide glue or 5 minute epoxy might be quicker.

I've been laminating my own up for a long time. I find that Titebond 3 works well for this. I use my go-bar deck for laminating, and noticed that I was running past the closed time in some cases getting the bars on; the last few inches would not be tight. I started thinning the glue out with about 10% added water. This makes it very runny, but keeps it from setting up too fast, and does not seem to interfere with the bond. Put a fair amount of glue on both surfaces and stack them up, using a piece of 1/4" plexi as a caul, and leave them overnight at least: 24 hours is better. There will usually be a bit of cupping and twisting due to differential shrinkage of the wood as it dries, but nothing you can't deal with so long as you leave it in clamps until it's really dry.

I buy several different heights and thicknesses of purfling from Gurian Instruments. You have to buy minimum runs, but they will make any size you want.

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I gave it a try to dye some of the maple I have to make a BWB layup. I wanted to use the vacuum bag and the bending form to try to do it all in one shot. It turned into a total mess.

The epoxy was causing the dye to get all over everything. I couldn’t keep it all aligned well enough to vac the air out. I think I’ll have to pre-bend the veneers just in a stack (not glued) and then glue up with TB3 and put in the vacuum bag.

Will send some pics once I work out a usable workflow. Ideas are appreciated.




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As I say, in my experience TB3 holds up well in bending. I see no need to go to epoxy, especially since most of the 'consumer' epoxies let go at pretty much the same temperature as Titebond. Try gluing the veneers up flat and see how they bend. I've had enough run-ins with epoxy over the years that I don't use it unless there's no other alternative.

I bend on a pipe so it can be quite hot and I've had no problems with TB3 either.

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Thanks, I will give it a try laminating flat and bending in the side bender. I really wanted to use the vacuum bag!

I will be doing some double side testing soon so I'll get to use it soon enough.

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Gurian can do that. I'm not sure how many you need and they do have minimums but it might be worth checking.

FYI I wanted to have them (gurian) make some rope binding, PS there is 1 chinese supplier of binding but most of his stuff is under 1/4in and super inexpensive. but decided that I have so much material around that I would try do it myself. I am very happy with the results using tb3 as allan mentioned , .Allan thanks for the tip abt using thinned tb3 . This is timely as we are just setting up another batch of rope binding.

Thanks for the help with this, Alan.

I glued up the sheets flat using TB3 with water added. It actually worked quite well. I used the vac bag and two 3/4" ply plates to clamp for an hour. I then took it out of the bag and clamped between the two plates and are still there now.

Instead of dyed maple I used 0.020 black fiber board that I get from RC. I've never pre-bent this stuff so I don't know if spritzing the fiber board will cause it to fall apart or not. I will report back what I find!

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With about 22"-23" of vacuum water boils at room temperature, iirc, so you can pull the moisture out fast.

Seemed to work great! I’ll cut it into strips and go from there. Appreciate all the help!



Brad


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http://www.gurianinstruments.com
check there close outs.

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