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I need to remove kerfing so I can redo the job correctly. Any advise on doing this or do I just take a chisel and start working ?


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What kind of glue did you use and when was the original kerfing installed?

A few weeks ago . Fish glue


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How does fish glue undo?

I need to do that from time to time, I use a clothes iron from the outside and try to get the pallet knife in there, mindful not to attempt to much twisting of the knife to remove it. In other words, don't try to use the knife as a lever, you can blow your sides if not careful..

I thought some moisture with the heart would be efficacious.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

"I thought some moisture with the heart would be efficacious."

Really it's nothing to cry your heart out over!

I think I meant heat

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I like the phrase “water with the heart” better. Agua con corazon.

I got most of it off w a sharp brace carving chisel ... sandpaper will handle the rest.

Ed, moisture w fish glue


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When I finish the rekerf.... do I simply plane it down flush to the sides or do I need to go back to the radius dishes?
B


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I’d chalk the kerf or make witness lines with a pencil, then re-sand. It shouldn’t take too long. You’ll want the new material to be properly radiused.


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Back to the dishpit with ya!

Yes, Ed is so right, back to the dishpit ya be.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

So I read and re-read the last two post. I couldn’t understand why you guys were being so harsh and vulgar. It turns out I may have been transposing the sh/p.


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Don't think harsh and vulgar at all! Think radius dish slave pit again!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Arrrrrgg! To the dishpit!!!


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So relining the body with kerfed lining...OK. it needs to go in slightly proud (1/32" is perfect) and re-radiused using the same approach taken the first time.

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For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

I DID get it re-dished it was, though a challenge as the back is glued on already... I was going to take a chance on the thinned lining, but decided to rekerf it instead of wondering if the top would fly off...

So what I had to do was lay the rim w the mold down upside down on the dish and do my best to keep even pressure as I rotated it around... the mold was heavy enough to add weight so It didn’t take forever and I did get the radius reapplied as well as taken out of the upper bout:)



Ready for the ol top:)


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That's better!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

That's how I do all mine. Move the frame, not the dish. But I had my dish custom made to about 2"...

Not sure how I feel about that gap under the neck block...

Well the gap only proceeds up to the kerfing. There is a strip around the top that is the same width as the rest of the kerfing. It’s the same kind of thing you can see on the tail block at the bottom where the top will go. I don’t see a lot of tension there, definitely not more than on the top at the tail block, so I figured why not free that are up to move.

Now, all that said, I’m just playing compared to
the things you do and if there’s a reason NOT to do that I’d happily listen to it and make appropriate adjustments next time.
Thanks Ed


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es bein mi amigo

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Part of the reason guitars need neck resets is the forward rotation of the neck block, accompanied by the back flattening in that area. I’m not sure how much having the bottom of the block glued prevents this, but that’s why Spanish heels and c block style construction exists.

I’ve never done any deliberate experiments, but it’s my understanding that a gap like that is generally considered not a good idea by consensus.

If you look at chladni patterns of backs, there’s not a lot going on there anyway.

I’m sure with some digging you can find previous threads on it...

That being said, I do chamfer the tail block to lining width on the top...

Thanks Ed


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