IMO those tops are both likely to be 'way too thin, at least for the way I build. That assumes they're pretty 'typical' for WRC, which tends to be lower in density, and consequently less stiff along the grain at a particular thickness, that most spruce. As always, the only way to know for sure is to measure, but that's pretty normal. I'd think that .11"-.12" would be more like a 'normal' thickness for cedar on a steel string, and I've gone to .125" and a little more with some really low density ones. It's probably better to start over. The labor you put in is not worth much compared with the cost of new tops, and the loss to your reputation when they self-destruct is worth even more.

The big question is whether you have installed the binding yet. If not, then a re-top is no big deal.

That is awfully thin for cedar as mentioned. I've got some surprisingly stiff cedar that might be able to go to .100 or so but it's rare seeing cedar that stiff.

This is the retop method I use and it works quite well. The arm bevel might present a bit of a challenge with it but should work.

http://www.grevenguitars.com/tablet/retopping-demo.html

Some of that depends on the body size as well. I just retopped a single 0 with Sinker WRC and thinned the top to .098 and it sounds great. So if you have a smaller guitar with a short scale it could be OK.

Thanks Tim, very helpful but I think this one was always going to be replaced. Leaning a bit towards finishing it up as it's nearly there and I will only have to remove the bridge as far as additional work. Still stewing...