Initial thoughts are that your stock was not vertical.

Could you put the sled and the workpiece on the saw, with the saw off, and take a picture of the setup that you ran? That might help someone diagnose the problem. And if it is not clear from the photo, let us know what brand/model of table saw and what brand/model of any other thing used during the cut, like if a miter gauge is part of the sled.

I have used a taper jig and some clamps and run the taper jig along the table saw fence and would get pretty much what you have in the picture.

I switched to using a wide blade in the band saw and didn’t see that issue anymore but there was more to clean up on the two faces of the joint.

I chalked it up to my table saw sucked and the blade was deflecting when trying to saw into such a wide piece.




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When you are trying to cut wood that is standing on edge on a table saw, even the tiniest imperfections will send the angle off a lot at either the top or the bottom (which will be side to side on the neck). I think it is easier to just make the cut on the bandsaw, freehand to a pencil line, and clean it up with a blockplane after that.

That's what I do, but I clean it up on the edge sander...

I can tell you that if you blade cuts this in one slice you will get a much better and safer to raise the blade through the work. Be sure you are square and clamped. My father was a cabinet maker and we used this trick on all miter cuts.
Try it you might see that it is safer and works better.
sleds have too much movement in them.

We do very few scarfed necks, and usually just bandsaw and plane. When we do jig up the cut for the tablesaw (usually scarfing non-instrument stuff, but sometimes a neck for a student), we use the jig pictured and then clean up the gluing surfaces with a hand plane using the method depicted in the drawing.









A few things worth noting:

- As mentioned, having correctly dimensioned and squared stock is important...varying width or thickness will skew the cut or the glue-up, as the headstock portion of the neck is reversed in orientation for glue-up.

- Clamping the leading edge of the stock is important, as it is cut free during the operation while the blade is still in contact. An alternative to this is to skew the jig such that the cutoff is left behind the sled and avoids having a piece of loose cutoff chattering against the blade.

- A short miter gauge track is as bad as a loose one - the sled needs to fully register in the track from before the work arrives at the blade to after the blade fully clears the work. Both hardwood and plastic strips wear over time, as well as flex if not fully fastened, so we use adjustable aluminum tracks that allow slop to be largely eliminated

- Because the track fully registers the jig to the miter slot well before the cut, any remaining slop can be largely eliminated by holding some slight rotational pressure with the handles seen. These handles also keep the user from any temptation to put fingers where they do not belong, and this is further reinforced with the combination blade cover and bridge between what can be two halves of the jig if the cut is not stopped correctly.

- For the best surface off the blade, the cut must be done with a sharp, fresh blade that moves continuously through the work at near constant speed. We stop the cut only after the blade clears the cut, but before the jig is bisected.

- Cumpiano has a good gluing procedure depicted for neck scarf joints, and we use a similar jig. Even with a sharp, full kerf blade (1/8" cut width), we still do not consider the joint to be glue-ready off the saw...cleanup with a sharp handplane provides the best surface, which is just good enough, given the higher scarf angles seen in luthiery.

Woody

So the boxy construction that the right hand handle is screwed to is just that - a hollow long box where the blade hides after it has cut the neck piece?

Very clever

Ed